Paul's Blog

Your Home's "MPG"

2012-02-02T10:01:00.004-06:00

I'm sure you're all familiar with the sticker on the windows of the cars at the dealership announcing their "Miles-per-gallon". What if when you went home-shopping, there was a sticker on the home's window giving you a similar rating that lets you know how energy efficient that home is as compared to any other home?

Considering that the purchase of your home will probably be one of the biggest financial investments you will make and considering that the energy costs for that home will be the largest bill associated with your home on a monthly basis, wouldn't it be wise to know how efficient (or how much of an energy hog) your potential home could be?

Enter the HERS score. HERS stands for Home Energy Rating System and it is a national home rating system that tells how efficient a home is. In order for a home to get a HERS rating, a certified RESNET rater must inspect AND test the home and all of its energy efficient features. After inputting that data into a nationally recognized software, the HERS score is produced and can be associated with that particular home.

So I could drone on for hours about how the HERS score works, but RESNET has come out with an easy to use website that explains it graphically. Check out this link to see the graphical explanation that outdoes any explanation I could give here on the blog. I hope you'll consider looking for that HERS score next time you are house shopping. It may save you a LOT of money!

Bringing Thermostats Into the 21st Century

2011-11-03T09:16:00.003-05:00

Just like dental floss and Wii Fit, programmable thermostats only work if you actually USE them. According to a blog on CO.Design, only 6% of people take the time to do what they know they should - at least as far as their HVAC system is concerned. In response to this obvious lack of bonding between owners and their thermostats, the "inventor" of the iPod has developed a sleek new look and intuitive functions to bring thermostats up-to-date. Check out the link above for more info and a video that introduces the Nest Learning Thermostat.

Bipartisan Bill Introduced in the U.S. Senate to Account for Energy Costs in Mortgage Underwriting

2011-11-03T09:05:00.002-05:00

Interesting news from RESNET....

October 26, 2011

Bipartisan Bill Introduced in the U.S. Senate to Account for Energy Costs in Mortgage Underwriting

U.S. Senators Michael Bennet (D-Colo.) and Johnny Isakson (R-Ga.) introduced a bipartisan bill that would enable better mortgage underwriting, reflect the value of energy performance in the appraisal, encourage investments in energy efficient homebuilding and create more than 80,000 construction jobs.

Under the Sensible Accounting to Value Energy (SAVE) Act, federal mortgage loan agencies would consider a homeowner’s expected energy costs when determining the homeowner’s ability to make monthly mortgage payments.

There are two main elements of the proposed legislation. The first is the recognition of the energy as an housing cost. This would change the current PITI (Principal, Interest, Taxes and Insurance) into PIETI (Principal, Interest, Taxes, Insurance plus Energy). This means that with every dollar the home saves in energy it would increase the buyer’s ability to afford the efficient home by the same amount. This has been a structural reform advocated by RESNET since 2006 (see RESNET Policy on Energy Efficient Mortgages)

The second main element of the SAVE Act is the Loan to Value Adjustment, which incorporates the Net Present Value (NPV) of expected energy savings into the home’s appraisal.

Both elements will allow homeowners to invest in improved energy performance and finance it through the traditional mortgage.

The proposed legislation would recognize RESNET home energy ratings for calculating the energy savings for the mortgage loan.

According to the legislation’s sponsors, the average homeowner spends more than $2,000 each year on energy costs – more than on either real estate taxes or homeowners insurance, both of which are regularly accounted for in mortgage underwriting. On average, these energy costs amount to more than $60,000 over the life of a 30-year mortgage. The SAVE Act would address this blind spot, giving a more complete picture of the costs of homeownership and borrowers’ capacity to service debt.

Under the SAVE Act, lenders would account for expected energy costs along with other recurring payments in the debt-to-income qualifying ratios, which test the borrower’s ability to afford regular monthly mortgage payments. According to a new study from The American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy, the SAVE act is predicted to create 83,000 new jobs in construction, renovation and manufacturing by 2020.

"It is rare to have such diverse interests come together, and that’s because this is a common-sense bill," said Bennet. "The Save Act would help provide access to useful information about energy usage that home owners, buyers, appraisers and underwriters want and need. It would lead to more complete and accurate mortgage underwriting, would encourage investments in home energy improvements, create more than 80,000 jobs and lighten the load for Colorado families’ budgets."

"As someone who has 30 years of experience in the resident real estate industry and who has lived through multiple recessions, I understand that recovery in the housing market and job creation in the construction sector is pivotal to getting our economy back on track," said Isakson. "I place my support behind this bill because it has the potential to create jobs without any cost to taxpayers, and it will also improve mortgage underwriting in this country by including energy as a factor in the process."

The bill has support from a broad coalition of real estate, business, building trade and conservation groups, including RESNET, Leading Builders of America, Appraisal Institute, U.S. Green Building Council, National Association of Manufacturers, International Code Council, U.S. Chamber of Commerce, ASHRAE, Efficiency First, Alliance to Save Energy, American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy, American Gas Association, American Public Gas Association, Natural Resources Defense Council, and National Association of State Energy Officials.

"The SAVE Act creates private sector jobs while making our homes more energy efficient," said Ross Eisenberg, Environment and Energy Counsel at the U.S. Chamber of Commerce. "And by accomplishing these goals without the need for major federal spending, the SAVE Act will spur job growth in the private sector without adding to the federal deficit. That is a ‘win-win’ for the business community, and is the kind of realistic, commonsense policy everyone should want to get behind."

"This bill is a win for homeowners, the economy, and a cleaner environment. The legislation would empower homeowners and lenders with better information about energy bills so they can make more informed decisions. This proposal would enable increased investment in the energy efficiency of homes, leading to lower energy bills. At the same time, it also would help create jobs and reduce toxic pollution from wasted energy," said Philip Henderson, senior financial policy specialist, Natural Resources Defense Council.

"We strongly support this legislation because it will improve mortgage underwriting performed by federal mortgage agencies by ensuring that energy costs are included in the process," said Appraisal Institute President Joseph C. Magdziarz, MAI, SRA. "It would require use of qualified, competent appraisers and would help ensure that appraisers have access to data needed to analyze the effects of energy-efficient home improvements in the marketplace. Consumers would benefit from the bill’s efforts to help ensure they receive a reliable, credible opinion of value."

"With this act in place, we believe it is possible to substantially increase the energy efficiency of new homes over the next decade while retaining affordability for our customers. This truly is a win-win opportunity for our customers, the economy and our environment," said Ken Gear, executive director of Leading Builders of America, Inc.

The SAVE Act is one of RESNET congressional priorities. The RESNET network is urged to contact their Senators, educate them on the need for such legislation and urge them to co-sponsor the legislation.

IAQA New Orleans Chapter Workshop - August 17, 2011

2011-07-28T20:21:00.002-05:00

Wednesday, August 17, 2011
8:30 a.m. – 12 Noon

Lennox Industries
677 Time Saver Avenue
New Orleans, LA 70123

Legally Defensible Mold Sampling
By: Bill Feaheny, Air Testing Associates, LLC

Water Damage Effects on IAQ
By: Michael Orlando, Emergency Restoration

Differences in Antimicrobials
By: Garrett Monti, Quality Cleaning and Supply Company

FEES

IAQA Members: $60

Non-Members: $75

Limited space available. Fees include light breakfast.

QUESTIONS

Contact Jessica Hebert at gulfcoastenviro@aol.com

Houses That Work - coming to N.O.

2011-07-27T16:33:00.002-05:00

Existing Homes Educational Session Customized for the New Orleans Hot, Humid & Rainy Climate

This NEW workshop explores cost eff ective opportunities to implement energy efficient and green technologies and strategies into remodeling projects for existing homes.

Learning Objectives:
* Learn the fundamentals of air,heat and moisture ow and see how they can be applied to remodeling existing homes to make them more effi cient, safe, healthy, durable and
comfortable.
* Apply the building science to common remodel projects such as roofi ng, re-siding, weatherization, kitchen & bath replacements, windows, foundation & basements
and HVAC upgrades.
* Identify process changes needed to cost eff ectively implement energy effi ciency in remodel projects
* Learn about the successes of other remodelers who have bene fitted from
implementing energy e fficiency objectives into remodel projects.

Join Houses That Work in New Orleans, LA
August 9th, 2011

LOCATION:
Best Western Landmark Hotel
2601 Severn Avenue Metairie, LA 70002 | Tel: 504.888.9500
TIMES:
Registration: 8:00 am
Session: 8:30 am to 4:30 pm
SESSION: HTW for Existing Homes – Remodeling for Energy Efficiency
COST: $125 | $140 After 8/2
PRESENTED BY: Justin Wilson
REGISTER NOW @ EEBA.ORG/Housesthatwork
FOR MORE INFORMATION: Contact Nancy a t 952.881.1098
Online REGISTRATION DEADLINE on or before August 8th, 2011

Time to Learn - Fixing those old wood windows

2011-07-05T07:47:00.003-05:00

What if you could improve the efficiency of your old historic New Orleans wood windows without replacing them for vinyl framed windows? This training event will give you the opportunity to learn how this can be done.

There is an unmet need in New Orleans for carpenters who can perform not only maintenance on historic wood windows, but who can weatherize them as part of energy efficiency improvements. Precious few people know how to make our wonderful historic windows operate at their peak performance. Bill Robinson will be sharing his insight and his weatherization technique, and believe me, this is a rare opportunity!

Please go to www.train2rebuild.com and sign up for his workshop on Saturday, July 16 from 10 am to 2 pm at 526 Caffin Ave in the Lower 9th Ward. Please take advantage of this opportunity to get training from Bill, an expert in building science, so you can improve your own historic windows in New Orleans or help someone else to improve theirs.

The demonstration being offered involves a routing technique that allows the installation of Q-Lon, a more permanent type of weatherstripping. This technique requires removing the window sashes.

Learn how to keep the bugs out and the A/C in. You'll thank me for it, especially during this oven of a summer!

Training Opportunity!!!!

2011-05-31T13:52:00.002-05:00

Looking for some in depth training on Advanced Pressure Diagnostics? Here's your opportunity!

This special three day training event features two days of training with nationally recognized trainers Anthony Cox and one day of training with Rick Karg.

Anthony Cox will train for two days on Advanced Pressure Diagnostics. This training begins with a review of the heat loss and heat gain fundamentals; heat transfer modes and energy exchanges between the building envelope and its contents, and the environment. Students will also learn what can happen when the boundaries are not aligned or intact. Students will be able to explain and illustrate (through the house of pressure) how to predict and/or diagnose these effects, primarily in order to prevent negative consequences and to find out how to use pressure diagnostics to align the thermal and pressure boundaries. Rick Karg will train for one day on ASHRAE 62.2.

Note that,starting January 1, 2012, these standards and guidelines will be mandatory.

The training will be held June 15-17, 2011 at the LACAP Weatherization Training Center in Baton Rouge, LA. The cost is $1,295 per person. Please respond as soon as possible if you are interested as there are a limited amount of spots available. Please contact Kimberly Speyrer at LACAP (225) 298-3323 for questions and to register.

New solar energy conversion process discovered by Stanford engineers could revamp solar power production

2010-09-01T21:20:00.003-05:00

Here's an article worth reading! Wouldn't it be great to be able to power our homes with solar at an affordable price?!?...Read on....

Stanford engineers have figured out how to simultaneously use the light and heat of the sun to generate electricity in a way that could make solar power production more than twice as efficient as existing methods and potentially cheap enough to compete with oil.

Unlike photovoltaic technology currently used in solar panels – which becomes less efficient as the temperature rises – the new process excels at higher temperatures.
Called "photon enhanced thermionic emission," or PETE, the process promises to surpass the efficiency of existing photovoltaic and thermal conversion technologies.
"This is really a conceptual breakthrough, a new energy conversion process, not just a new material or a slightly different tweak," said Nick Melosh, an assistant professor of materials science and engineering, who led the research group. "It is actually something fundamentally different about how you can harvest energy."
And the materials needed to build a device to make the process work are cheap and easily available, meaning the power that comes from it will be affordable.
Melosh is senior author of a paper describing the tests the researchers conducted. It was published online Aug. 1 in Nature Materials.

"Just demonstrating that the process worked was a big deal," Melosh said. "And we showed this physical mechanism does exist; it works as advertised."
Most photovoltaic cells, such as those used in rooftop solar panels, use the semiconducting material silicon to convert the energy from photons of light to electricity. But the cells can only use a portion of the light spectrum, with the rest just generating heat.

This heat from unused sunlight and inefficiencies in the cells themselves account for a loss of more than 50 percent of the initial solar energy reaching the cell.
L.A. Cicero Nick Melosh, assistant professor of materials science and engineering, stands beside the ultra-high vacuum chamber used in the tests that proved the PETE process works.

If this wasted heat energy could somehow be harvested, solar cells could be much more efficient. The problem has been that high temperatures are necessary to power heat-based conversion systems, yet solar cell efficiency rapidly decreases at higher temperatures.

Until now, no one had come up with a way to wed thermal and solar cell conversion technologies. Melosh's group figured out that by coating a piece of semiconducting material with a thin layer of the metal cesium, it made the material able to use both light and heat to generate electricity.

"What we've demonstrated is a new physical process that is not based on standard photovoltaic mechanisms, but can give you a photovoltaic-like response at very high temperatures," Melosh said. "In fact, it works better at higher temperatures. The higher the better."

While most silicon solar cells have been rendered inert by the time the temperature reaches 100 degrees Celsius, the PETE device doesn't hit peak efficiency until it is well over 200 C.

Because PETE performs best at temperatures well in excess of what a rooftop solar panel would reach, the devices will work best in solar concentrators such as parabolic dishes, which can get as hot as 800 C. Dishes are used in large solar farms similar to those proposed for the Mojave Desert in Southern California and usually include a thermal conversion mechanism as part of their design, which offers another opportunity for PETE to help generate electricity as well as minimize costs by meshing with existing technology.

Courtesy of Nick Melosh

A small PETE device made with cesium-coated gallium nitride glows while being tested inside an ultra-high vacuum chamber. The tests proved that the process simultaneously converted light and heat energy into electrical current.
"The light would come in and hit our PETE device first, where we would take advantage of both the incident light and the heat that it produces, and then we would dump the waste heat to their existing thermal conversion systems," Melosh said. "So the PETE process has two really big benefits in energy production over normal technology."

Photovoltaic systems never get hot enough for their waste heat to be useful in thermal energy conversion, but the high temperatures at which PETE performs are perfect for generating usable high-temperature waste heat. Melosh calculates the PETE process can get to 50 percent efficiency or more under solar concentration, but if combined with a thermal conversion cycle, could reach 55 or even 60 percent – almost triple the efficiency of existing systems.

The team would like to design the devices so they could be easily bolted on to existing systems, thereby making conversion relatively inexpensive.
The researchers used a gallium nitride semiconductor in the "proof of concept" tests. The efficiency they achieved in their testing was well below what they have calculated PETE's potential efficiency to be – which they had anticipated. But they used gallium nitride because it was the only material that had shown indications of being able to withstand the high temperature range they were interested in and still have the PETE process occur.

With the right material – most likely a semiconductor such as gallium arsenide, which is used in a host of common household electronics – the actual efficiency of the process could reach up to the 50 or 60 percent the researchers have calculated. They are already exploring other materials that might work.

Another advantage of the PETE system is that by using it in solar concentrators, the amount of semiconductor material needed for a device is quite small.

"For each device, we are figuring something like a 6-inch wafer of actual material is all that is needed," Melosh said. "So the material cost in this is not really an issue for us, unlike the way it is for large solar panels of silicon."

The cost of materials has been one of the limiting factors in the development of the solar power industry, so reducing the amount of investment capital needed to build a solar farm is a big advance.

"The PETE process could really give the feasibility of solar power a big boost," Melosh said. "Even if we don't achieve perfect efficiency, let's say we give a 10 percent boost to the efficiency of solar conversion, going from 20 percent efficiency to 30 percent, that is still a 50 percent increase overall."
And that is still a big enough increase that it could make solar energy competitive with oil.

The research was largely funded by the Global Climate and Energy Project at Stanford and the Stanford Institute for Materials and Energy Science, which is a joint venture of Stanford and SLAC National Accelerator Laboratory, with additional support from the Department of Energy and the Defense Advanced Research Projects Agency.

What Exactly is "Cap and Trade"?

2010-06-29T12:32:00.004-05:00

We've heard the term "Cap and Trade" thrown around a lot over the last few weeks as Congress revives a bill that was quieted a year or so ago. Some people believe that this bill is the answer to global warming, while others think that it will send us on a financially downward spiral, with little to no effect on the environment. The link below shows a short video that explains what Cap and Trade means and what the implications are for us in the U.S. and for us as a global society. Watch it and determine for yourself if you are in agreement with this up-and-coming legislation.
"Cap and Trade Explained"

Parade of Homes Green Building Showcase

2010-05-03T11:18:00.003-05:00

Two exciting demonstration houses will be featured in this year’s St. Tammany Parish Parade of Homes. Both houses were built by Kenny Adams of Integrity Builders and showcase the new standards of Green Building. Although energy efficient homes have appeared in past Parades, the Green Building concept takes conservation and efficiency to the next level. Green Building methods (established by the National Home Builders Association) consider ALL aspects of a construction project – Site Preparation, Resources, Energy and Water Efficiency measures, Indoor Air Quality and Owner Education - from start to finish. Houses are given a rating of Bronze, Silver, Gold or Emerald based on points earned in the categories mentioned above.

The two houses featured in the Parade have achieved Silver ratings while also meeting Energy Star requirements. LaGrange Consulting was proud to be part of the Green Building projects by providing testing and 3rd party verification during construction. The first house is located in the New Canaan Hills subdivision at 926 Agnes, Lot 12A in Mandeville. The second house can be found in the Autumn Gardens enclave of the Autumn Creek subdivision at 401 Bigleaf Maple, Lot S33 in Madisonville. All future homes in Autumn Gardens will all be constructed using Green Building standards.

The Parade of Homes will be held April 24-25, May 1-2, and May 8-9. Visit the HBA website site for more information and a full version of the 52 page Parade Magazine.

Baby It's Cooooooold Outside!

2010-03-04T09:41:00.003-06:00

The weather in New Orleans seems particularly cold this winter – probably a consequence of the Saints winning the Super Bowl and hell freezing over…WHO DAT! Here are a few tips to stay safe and get the most out of your heating system:

Gas Heat:
The best thing you can do for your HVAC system (winter and summer) is to regularly change the filter. Even if your filter has a 60 or 90-day life, go ahead and look it over once a month. Some houses are dustier than others. Some systems also have built-in “lifetime” filters which still need to be inspected and occasionally cleaned. The next best thing you can do is to have the system inspected and serviced by a licensed technician. Winter is also a great season to spend some time in the attic checking for duct leakage (see particulars below, in the Heat Pump section.)
In general the more gas appliances you use, the more necessary it is to have carbon monoxide detectors installed in your home. Even though a gas furnace is (usually) located in the attic, any return duct or plenum leakage could draw combustion by-products like CO directly into the house. This is even more of a risk where furnaces or water heaters are located inside mechanical closets in conditioned spaces.
If you ever suspect a gas leak or CO problem, get out of the house immediately. Leave exterior doors open so that the house can air out and call your gas provider (go ahead and program them into your cell phone…) Until the problem is resolved, do not use any appliances or devices that could generate a spark (including cell phones) inside the house.
Every once in a while, check the exterior gas line/meter connection to make sure it is completely level. (Strange things do happen – a lady in our office had her house shored and it twisted the meter almost 45 degrees).

Heat Pump:
If your heat pump doesn’t seem to be keeping up with the cold, check all of the duct connections and the air handler unit to make sure it is air sealed. Air leakage takes much more of a toll on the winter/heating function than summer/cooling operation. Use the smoke from a stick of incense (no cigarettes!) – return leaks will draw the smoke in, supply leaks will blow the smoke away. Check both ends of ducts, around the air handler and the full length of the plenums. All of these areas should be sealed with mastic, which is readily available at any home improvement store.

Fireplaces:
Both gas and masonry fireplaces should be inspected annually to ensure that the chimney or flue is in good shape with no obstructions, soot buildup or weak spots. Read last year’s blogs (here and here) to get the scoop on chimney safety.
If the area in the attic around the chimney is “open” (you can see down along the chimney to the top of the firebox), it provides a direct route for frigid attic air to enter your house. The floor of the attic should extend all the way to the chimney (metal flues should have a metal collar and fire-rated foam connection) and be covered in insulation.
Double-check the damper to make sure it’s closed when the fireplace is not in use. If you have an older fireplace that leaks a lot, install an inflatable draft stopper.

General Safety:
NEVER use candles, the stove, grill, etc. to heat your home! If you are worried about heating costs or paying your bills, contact your electric or gas provider to discuss your options. Some companies can actually help out with costs in emergency or difficult situations.

Go ahead and get these things taken care of now…If the Saints win it again next year, Lord only knows what will happen to Hell.

Santa's Coming Late this Year...

2009-12-16T14:02:00.003-06:00

For those big-hearted givers among you looking to buy your significant other the perfect energy efficient appliance for Christmas...you might want to wait until the new year arrives. According to a recent LSU news release (below) there is an upcoming energy efficient appliance rebate program slated to begin in January 2010.

DNR awarded $4.2 million for Energy Star Rebate Program
________________________________________
The U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) has announced that Louisiana’s Department of Natural Resources (DNR) has been awarded $4.2 million from the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act to support energy efficiency and alternative energy efforts in Louisiana homes through the Energy Star Rebate program.

In awarding the funding, DOE approved the comprehensive plan drafted through DNR’s State Energy Office for providing rebates to Louisiana homeowners who replace existing household appliances through the purchase of appliances with the “Energy Star” efficiency rating.

The State Energy Office has committed to making all DOE Energy Star-eligible appliances available to homeowners through the Louisiana program, except those that are not appropriate to Louisiana’s climate.

Included on the list of applicable appliances are clothes washers, dishwashers, refrigerators, freezers, water heaters, HVAC, and room air conditioners. The rebate amounts will range from $75 to $500, depending on the appliance purchased.

DNR Secretary Scott Angelle said the Energy Office staff has been working to make sure that the program is managed in the most quick and efficient way possible to meet the needs of consumers and ensure the funding is handled appropriately. “This rebate program serves two important goals,” Angelle said. “It is an economic boost to businesses selling these appliances and it will help consumers to use less energy and cut their household costs in the long run.”

The State Energy Office will be working with a third-party contractor to help manage the program, and expects to formally announce the schedule for rolling out the program in January 2010, at which time the details will be spelled out.

In addition, DNR will be partnering with utility companies, retailers, and other stakeholders to assist with marketing the program. That will be done in part through bill inserts and other publicity measures to ensure the public is made aware of the program once the rebates are available.

Louisiana homeowners will receive a mail-in rebate for the purchase of an Energy Star appliance once they’ve submitted proof of purchase. The Energy Star federal guidelines require replacement and proper disposal of old inefficient appliances. Therefore, participants will be required to certify compliance with LA R.S. 30:2421, which requires disposal of those appliances in an environmentally safe manner.

To learn more about the program, go to DNR's website.

'Twas the night before meter reads

2009-12-15T23:42:00.000-06:00

'Twas the night before meter reads, when all through the house
Not an electronic device was whirring, not even my mouse;
The computer was in sleep mode; the screensaver bare,
In hopes that I’d save some energy there;

The children were nestled all snug in their beds,
Having visions of their ipods plugged in close by their heads;
And mamma in her 'kerchief, and I in my cap,
Had just plugged in our cell phones to charge for a snap,

When on the side of my house there arose such a chatter,
I sprang from the bed to see what was the matter.
Away to the window I flew like a flash,
Tore open the shutters and threw up the sash.
The floodlights on the breast of the new-fallen snow
Gave the lustre of mid-day to objects below,
When, what to my wondering eyes should appear,
But a spinning of the numbers on my electric meter here.

With everything turned off, the house was all dark,
But I knew in a moment it must be a farce.
All those ipods and vcr’s and tv’s I liked,
were gobbling up all of my wattage by night.
How could this happen? What a cruel game!
I mumbled and grumbled and called them by name,
"Now, printers! now, Tv’s! now, answer machines!
And stereos! And cellphones! And Nintendo Wii!
Stop wasting my wattage and raising my bills!
Just turn off for real, not just sleep mode, if your will"

And then, in a twinkling, I knew what to do
I’d spend the whole night, unplugging all, not just a few

As I drew in my hand, and was turning around,
My wife met me asking what exactly I’d found.
I just sighed and told her I was on my way to bed
A better solution I would need instead,

So I stole a few moments to search on the web
And find a few power strips that kill vampire loads dead
I ordered them quickly and turned off the light
When I remembered my computer pulling wattage all night
After shutting it down, I turned off the strip
That powered my whole desk with one button flip
And giving a nod, I shuffled off to sleep
With the assurance that our standby load would soon history be,

Later the next month, when the meter man came,
He stared at my meter and then did exclaim,
“Wow! This family must have unplugged half their home!
Or maybe declared a ‘no vampire zone.’”
I heard the meter man say, as he drove out of sight,

"They got rid of their standby load, now that’s savings outright!"

Composed by
Rachel Miller
of LaGrange Consulting

Have You Hugged Your Heater Yet This Year?

2009-11-11T10:27:00.001-06:00

Cooler temperatures are finally here, and now is a good time to prepare for the upcoming heating season. Whether you use a gas furnace or heat pump or heat strip, it is important to have them regularly inspected for safety and efficiency. A typical inspection will cost between $150 and $200 and should include the following:
Gas Furnace:
Burners checked for debris
Heat exchangers inspected for cracks
Proper venting and combustion air
Safeties working
Blower motor operation
Adequate temperature rise

Heat Pump:
Proper pressures on condenser unit
Defrost board and electric heat for defrost mode
Auxiliary heat and safeties are working properly
Inside and outside coils are clean
Adequate temperature rise

If you need a recommendation for a HVAC service company, please feel free to call the office at 985-845-2148.

Improvements from the top down

2009-11-04T11:36:00.002-06:00

I’m sure as soon as the weather cools off, your first instinct will be to head up into the attic to start an energy efficiency overhaul. No? Well, even if it’s your second (or third…or tenth) choice, giving a day or two of attention to this space can have a beneficial impact on your comfort, indoor air quality and utility bills. Here are a few ideas to get you started:

1.Use caulk or expandable foam to air seal holes for wiring or piping.

2.Any non-horizontal surface in an attic that adjoins an indoor space should be air-sealed with rigid foam board and foil tape. Areas that need air sealing include skylights, 2nd floor walls (also called kneewalls) and cathedral ceilings.

3.Inspect insulation covering the attic floor. Make sure it forms a fluffy, continuous layer over all of the indoor spaces with no crushed or compacted areas. Attic decking on top of the ceiling joists is fine as long as it does not compress the insulation.

4.Install dampers on bathroom exhaust fans and add ducting to vent them through the nearest soffit.

5.Use a stick of incense to locate leaks in the HVAC system. While the system is running, hold the incense near duct connections, register boots and different areas of the HVAC cabinet and plenum. Supply leaks will blow the incense smoke away, return leaks will draw the smoke in. All leaks should be sealed with UL 181 rated mastic which can be purchased at any home improvement store. If using incense is a problem, look for telltale signs such as mold, rust or waterstaining. All of these are caused by condensation formed when the cold, conditioned air leaks from the system, mixing with the hot, humid attic air. Areas of dirty insulation indicate return air leaks where dust and dirt has become trapped as it is drawn into the system.

6.Build an attic box to fit over your access panel (see instructions at this website) or insulate and weatherstrip the attic access door.

7.Insulate the evaporator drain line around its entire circumference for its entire length.

Hopefully these simple ideas will spark your enthusiasm for bigger, whole-house energy improvements! The biggest room in the world is the room for improvement….

Education is Never a Waste

2009-10-02T15:07:00.001-05:00

If you have time this weekend, Southern Homes is hosting a FREE open house for their High Performance Home in Ponchatoula. Southern Homes is working in partnership with LSU, US DOE and the Louisiana DNR to produce a house that is energy efficient, comfortable year-round, durable, healthy and a great investment. There will be live demonstrations at 10 & 12:30, along with educational materials and experts available throughout the day.

Here are the particulars:
Saturday, October 3rd
9am – 2pm
161 Jack Pine Lane (Lot 80)
Pine Island Subdivision in Pontchatoula

Also…Southeastern Louisiana University’s branch location in St. Tammany is offering more continuing education courses as part of their Green Living Series. This coming Tuesday (October 6th) I will be presenting a 2 hour seminar on energy inspections, audits and diagnostic testing and the information these tools can reveal about your home. I’ll also cover general information on HVAC systems, CFL lighting, energy efficient doors, windows and skylights. Finally, I’ll explain some of the incentive programs available and their requirements as well as other resources for information and research. The seminar is being held at the St. Tammany Center on Koop drive from 11 am to 1pm. It’s brown bag so bring your lunch, your questions and your curiosity. Visit the St. Tammany Center’s website to get details on registration and location as well as other courses in the Green Living series.

LRA Chinese Drywall Relief

2009-09-24T15:14:00.003-05:00

Good news! On Tuesday, September 22nd, the Louisiana Recovery Authority approved the contaminated drywall assistance action plan. They have set aside $5 million of federal Community Development Block Grant money to help reimburse homeowners affected by contaminated Chinese drywall.

The LRA will write a draft program on the application process, eligibility, etc. that will be open for public opinion and comment. After public input is incorporated, the final plan must be approved by the LRA, legislative budget committee and the US Department of Housing and Urban development. The Louisiana Home Builders Association will be working closely with LRA on their program guidelines. To monitor the progress of the plan or find contacts, visit the Louisiana Recovery Authority website and search “Chinese drywall.”

Water, Water Everywhere

2009-09-11T16:44:00.003-05:00

The last few days have been just fabulous weather – if you’re a duck. Or frog. Or gator. All of this rain has provided an excellent “opportunity” to evaluate the water runoff patterns around our homes. In many of the houses we inspect, outdoor water control (or lack of) has a significant impact on indoor moisture and air quality. It is definitely worth taking some time to make sure water runoff is not an issue for your foundation or crawlspace.

Any water that does not soak into the ground, whether it comes from a heavy rain or sprinkler runoff, has to go somewhere. Ideally, our houses are elevated so that water runs away from each and every wall. In the real world, it seems like this hardly ever happens.
Impervious surfaces such as roofs, walkways and patios repel every drop of rainwater that falls on them. A 1-inch rainfall on a typical 1,200 square foot roof generates almost 750 gallons of water. Since these surfaces are man-made, they are usually installed with at least some slope to drain the water, which means that gutters, pipes and drains can be added to catch runoff. Once this water is collected, it should be directed as far from your foundation as possible. Many people assume that the angled downspout at the base of the gutter pipe is sufficient to keep water away from the house, but this is hardly ever true. Splash blocks, extensions and flexible spouts are all important “accessories” for a complete and effective gutter system. Also remember that a clogged gutter is a useless gutter. Clean both the gutters and the full length of the downspouts to prevent backups.

Uncovered paving also generates runoff and can impact the foundation if not properly drained. Because we have little or no ground slope in this part of the world, moving that paving runoff can be a bit of challenge, but it is do-able. New installations can use continuous grates and piping to collect and direct water. Runoff from existing paving can be managed by adding a narrow french drain (gravel-filled trench) along the full length of the lowest edge of paving. The french drain should be sloped to lead away from the house into a discharge area such as a ditch or curb inlet. Please be mindful that moving water off of your property might wind up moving it into your neighbor’s yard. In the Gulf South, both good fences and good ditches make good neighbors.

Rain isn’t the only source of runoff water – landscape irrigation, especially when run on a regular basis – can contribute heavily to water issues. Foundation plantings in particular should be carefully sloped away from the house. Also, for raised houses, be sure that the foundation planting does not block a drainage pathway and cause pooling in the crawlspace. Using soaker hoses on timers instead of sprinklers reduces runoff, overall water use and your utility bill as well.

Finally, be sure that all service drain lines for the HVAC system and appliances extend well past the foundation and that their discharge does not form puddles.

On a larger scale, good drainage is just as important in subdivisions or rural neighborhoods. Improper drainage in these areas can impact lift stations, road access and mosquito populations. If you live in an area with subsurface drainage, watch the drain inlets and keep them free of yard debris and trash. Neighborhood associations should stay in regular contact with the parish to ensure regular cleaning and maintenance of stormwater pipes. If your neighborhood relies on a network of ditches for drainage, make sure that the area you are responsible for stays open and weed-free. Culverts (short lengths of piping under roads and driveways) must be in good condition to allow the maximum flow of water and the ditches themselves should be regularly dredged or dug by the parish to maintain proper slope.

Sittin' in the Shade

2009-09-05T09:32:00.002-05:00

Depending on which way your windows face, exterior shading can be a very effective strategy for cooling the inside of your home. Individual exterior window shades have the advantage over interior shades because they block solar heat and glare before it reaches the window. Any heat absorbed by the shade itself stays outdoors – never impacting the interior of the house. Properly placed shade trees are also very effective at blocking heat and glare. Be sure to evaluate a tree’s “cooling” ability before cutting one down or planting.

Interior shades can also play a part in blocking solar heat, but choose carefully. Depending on their color and material, interior shades will absorb some amount of solar heat which becomes transferred back into the room. Cloth and wood shades will absorb less heat than aluminum. The outward (window) facing surface should be as light-colored as possible to reflect the most heat. White is ideal. Interior shades should also cover the window as completely as possible to form an “air pocket” between the window and shade. Trapping air in this manner keeps it from circulating inside the house, adding to the heat load.

The images below come from the Florida Solar Energy Center’s Homeowner’s Guide to Residential Window Selection. You can find more information about exterior shading as well as all other things solar.

Resisting the Surge

2009-08-22T06:39:00.000-05:00

Power surges caused by lightning can wreak a significant amount of damage to a home’s wiring and electronics if the house is not properly protected. According to the Insurance Information Institute, both the number of homeowner claims for damage due to lightning as well as the average payout have both increased markedly in recent years.

The most essential element in protecting a house from power surges is correct grounding. Electricity in a wire is comparable to water running through a hose. Quick increases in flow or pressure (surges) will cause major damage at the end of the line if there is no where for the water (electricity) to drain. Luckily for us, our clay soils and high water table provide a very large conductive “drain” to dissipate electrical surges. Running a ground wire from a home’s wiring provides an outlet for the larger part of the surge to drain before it reaches then entire electrical system.

Any line carrying an electrical signal, including phone lines and coaxial cables (TV, satellite dish lines, etc.) is a conduit for an electrical surge. It is important that all of the lines into the house (electrical, phone, coaxial cable) be grounded on the same element. Multiple grounding rods (a common installation on older houses) create differences in pressure/current that also cause problems. The present building code requires that all house wiring be grounded on the same rod to address this issue. Be sure to regularly check the ground rod and wiring - during my most recent inspection, I discovered the coaxial ground had been neatly clipped off by my weed eater.

Another important element of protection is a surge suppression system installed in-line with all electrical systems including the circuit panel, phone system and coaxial cable. The circuit breakers in our homes are not designed to handle supply-side surges – they only manage the draw from our indoor appliances. Surge suppression systems installed at the electrical panel are designed to handle any of the excess current that makes it past the ground element.

Even though most of us relay on point-of-use surge suppressors to keep our electronics protected, they are the last (and weakest) line of defense. In reality, there is a wide variety in how much protection they provide and for how long. Cheaper ($5-$10) units are little more than multi-outlet plugs and offer almost no protection. More expensive suppressors afford better security but they too will burn out when exposed to repeated surges and spikes. When relying on a point-of-use surge protector, do your research and be sure that you are getting the amount of security that matches your investment.

A full-house, professionally installed lightning protection system typically costs $1,500. These systems come with a 25-year guarantee and eliminate the need for point-of-use surge protectors.

Backup Generator Maintenance and Operation

2009-08-14T15:44:00.003-05:00

The good news is that NOAA now expects a near- to below-normal Atlantic hurricane season. The bad news is that around here “normal” is just a setting on the washing machine. With that in mind, I’d like to make a few suggestions about maintaining and using your portable generator.

A clogged, dirty generator can overheat. If your equipment needs a touch-up, use a brush, shop vacuum or low-pressure air to do the job. Never use a hose – you could force water into the fuel system.
Run the generator once every few months to make sure everything is working properly. Each time you run it, check the engine oil level and air filter. Change the oil, air filter, fuel filter, and spark plug according to the owner's manual.

Gasoline that sits in an engine for more than 30 days can gum up the system. Adding a fuel stabilizer keeps things running smoothly. After adding the stabilizer, be sure to run the engine for several minutes to circulate it through the fuel system. Stabilized fuel will store safely for up to a year. If you are an optimist (or fortune teller) and plan on going more than a year without a power outage, drain the fuel tank completely to prevent clogging.

The main hazards to watch for with generator usage are electric shock, fire and carbon monoxide (CO) poisoning. Being mindful of power loads, electric cords, refueling and generator placement will keep the situation as safe as possible.

Portable generators supply only a limited amount of power, so planning ahead is important to avoid overloading the system. Make a list of appliances that you intend to operate with the generator during an outage. Estimate the wattage needed to power these appliances by using an online chart like the one supplied by the Department of Energy (click here). Both the generator and any extension cords you use should be sized to handle the wattage load. Electrical cords are rated in either amps or watts – the information is usually stamped on the cord itself. Remember, extension cords do not have fuses or breakers - if the cord becomes overloaded it will become extremely hot, posing a risk of fire or electrocution. Although it is a good idea to keep the extension cords as out of the way as possible, coiling them up will create areas of concentrated heat. Always uncoil cords and lay them in flat open locations. Make sure that the cord insulation is free of cuts or tears and that the plug has a grounding pin.

An alternative to using extension cords is having a transfer switch installed. This equipment creates a permanent patch between the generator and your home’s electrical system. Transfer switches are the only safe way to power hardwired appliances such as ceiling fans or the HVAC system. Transfer switches must be installed by an electrician.

A generator should always be allowed to cool for at least 10 minutes before refueling. Gasoline vapors are extremely flammable and any spillage onto a hot engine could ignite quickly. Make sure the generator has at least 3 feet of clearance on all sides when running for adequate cooling and access to controls.

Generator engines produce high levels of carbon monoxide very quickly. Carbon monoxide is odorless and invisible – the only reliable way to monitor it is with a CO detector. Because of this, a generator should NEVER be located in an enclosed or partially-enclosed area, even those with large amounts of ventilation. Examples include homes, garages, basements, crawl spaces or sheds. Fans, open doors and windows are not adequate for “airing out” carbon monoxide. Always operate the generator outdoors at least 15 feet from the house, away from doors, windows and vents. A battery-operated carbon monoxide alarm is recommended .

Last, but not least, always keep a couple of quarts of oil on hand along with a spare air filter, fuel filter and spark plug. A little bit of preparation and a good measure of care will make your power woes one less thing to worry about during the next outage.

Are We Clear?

2009-08-07T15:43:00.001-05:00

Summer sunlight streaming in through your windows can be a beautiful thing – until it heats up the inside of your house like an Easy-Bake Oven. Depending on when your home was built, protection against “Solar Heat Gain” varies widely. In the 1990’s the residential window industry began addressing the issue of solar heat gain by producing windows with low-e coatings. Older (pre-1990’s) windows without coatings are called “clear” - even double-paned, insulated assemblies may have “clear” glass depending on when they were made. Newer windows come standard with low-e coating – in fact, our local building code requires windows with a Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC) of 0.4 or less in new construction. So what’s an older window to do? One option for retrofitting “clear” glass is installing window film.

Window films form a semi-permanent bond using adhesive that is activated by spraying on a diluted compound of water and pure soap (such as baby shampoo) Once the adhesive has cured (2 days to 1 month depending on product), it forms a fairly tough seal that can only be removed with a great deal of effort.

If you’re considering installing window film yourself, a number of brands are readily available through home improvement stores. High quality films can also be ordered over internet. Before tackling this job, be well prepared and have your method thought out beforehand. Patience, preparation and a bit of practice can take you a long way. These websites have some great instructions and tips for the do-it-yourself crowd. (Window Film Installation Site 1, Site 2)

If you’re not feeling up to a Do-It-Yourself job, a number of companies can help with both film selection and installation. LaGrange Consulting recommends GT Tint Solutions (Greg Taylor – 985-966-4953) or Solar Solutions (Peter Caughman – 504-525-5880) to get the work done.

There is a limit to how much radiation can be blocked with coatings and films. If your existing windows have a fairly low SHGC, adding window film won’t be much help. The only way to reduce solar heat gain in those cases is to physically shade the window on the exterior (planting trees, installing shutters) or interior (using blinds and drapes).

There are a few places that residential window film should not be applied, such as: Plexiglas panes, motor vehicle windows, frosted, etched, leaded, cracked, holed, deeply scratched or older glass (40+ years).

Solar Power Straight Talk

2009-07-24T10:06:00.005-05:00

Solar power is one of the most discussed “green” sources of energy, especially given the federal and state solar tax credits available to help defray the costs of a new system. Before “going solar”, however, there are a few things to take into consideration.

The first piece of information you should have is an understanding of the amount of electricity your house uses on a daily basis. Until a house is as energy efficient as possible (airtight building envelope, effective insulation, high SEER HVAC system, Energy Star appliances, etc.), spending money on solar energy will be a waste and it will provide only a small percentage of the overall energy needs.

The ideal situation for installing solar includes choosing a south facing roofline that can be the potential location of a solar array. No trees or brush should block this southern exposure. Leave ample room in the attic below this area to install inverters, solar water heater equipment or other equipment that may be a necessary part of the photovoltaic system. Plumbing pipes can be installed and capped for later use with a solar water heater. It is important to find out the covenant restrictions of the neighborhood to see if solar panels are allowed on the fronts of the roofs. Consult South Coast Solar at (504) 529-7869 when you are ready to install the renewable products. This is not a do it yourself project.

Solar Water Heating

Solar water heating provides the fastest payback of any solar system you may install in your home. Solar water heating is the most efficient method of heating your home’s water supply. Investigate the viability of this option to reap 15% to 20% savings on your monthly utility bill. State tax credits are currently available for renewable energy improvements. Solar water heating can provide almost all, if not all of your hot water needs. This can save up to 20% on your annual utility bills and can offer a payoff in 5 to 7 years. Consider the ProgressivTube System in your home.

TCT Solar's ProgressivTube system is a "Passive" solar water heater. ProgressivTube is a preheating system, requiring no pumps, controls, mechanical equipment or electric utility power to operate. It provides hot water to your home, requiring only water pressure to operate and sun to heat. It lowers utility costs today, and has no future utility cost increases. ProgressivTube is designed to supply a significant percentage of the daily hot water heating load during the spring, summer, and fall and during power outages. This water heater has a 10 year limited warranty.

Solar Power Installations

Solar power arrays come in one of two configurations – stand-alone or grid-integrated. Installing a hybrid system that has both battery backup and grid availability is very complex and expensive.

Stand-alone systems provide power for the entire house. Battery backup (usually costs extra) is required for power supply during nighttime hours. As noted above, a house must be as energy efficient as possible for this to be worthwhile.

Grid-integrated systems receive power from both the solar array and the existing utility company. Any excess power generated by the solar array is “returned” to the grid. Because of the integrated circuitry, the solar array will also quit providing power during a grid outage. This negates the purpose of having a backup system during storms and outages.
Tax Credits on Solar

Both Louisiana and the federal government are offering tax credits on solar systems (i.e. solar panels, etc.) and solar water heaters

The federal government is offering a 30% tax credit on these systems with NO CAP. This means that consumers will collect 30% of their investment back from the federal government on each of these items listed, not to mention the energy savings they will reap over the years to come.

The state of Louisiana has a very progressive tax credit that offers a 50% tax credit on each renewable energy systems which include Solar systems (i.e. solar panels, etc.) and Solar Water Heaters up to $25,000 (i.e. the maximum credit received would be $12,500). This tax credit is in addition to the federal tax credit.

Consumers can actually collect up to 80% of their initial investment on these products, depending on price-points, etc. You should speak with your accountant to make sure you qualify.

Hot Off the (Internet) Press...

2009-07-21T11:26:00.004-05:00

The following article has some terrific news on energy efficiency funds. We’ll keep you updated as we find out more on the incentives and coupons…

July 20, 2009

!!!!!!!LOUISIANA - $28,677,600 awarded today!!!!!

U.S. Department of Energy Secretary (DOE) Steven Chu today announced more than $162 million in funding from the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act to support energy efficiency and renewable energy projects in Colorado, Delaware, Indiana, Louisiana, Massachusetts, Pennsylvania, and Puerto Rico. Under DOE's State Energy Program, states and territories have proposed statewide plans that prioritize energy savings, create or retain jobs, increase the use of renewable energy, and reduce greenhouse gas emissions.

With today's announcement, these states and territories are receiving 40% of their total State Energy Program (SEP) funding authorized under the Recovery Act. They will now have received 50% of their total Recovery Act SEP funding. The initial 10% of total funding was previously available to states to support planning activities; the remaining 50% of funds will be released once states meet reporting, oversight, and accountability milestones required by the Recovery Act. DOE anticipates that a vast majority of funding will be awarded by November 30, 2009.

Activities eligible for State Energy Program funding include energy audits, building retrofits, education and training efforts, transportation programs to increase the use of alternative fuels and hybrid vehicles, and new financing mechanisms to promote energy efficiency and renewable energy investments.

Louisiana will use its SEP Recovery Act funds to promote energy efficiency across the state's commercial, residential, and state government sectors. Under the program, the state will encourage business owners to reduce energy consumption by providing rebates for energy efficiency retrofits in commercial buildings. In the residential sector, the program will provide incentives to home builders to encourage the construction of new high energy efficiency homes and will also provide support for homeowners to improve the efficiency of existing homes. Further, the state will promote the purchase of new energy-efficient ENERGY STAR® appliances through participating utility company partners that will offer coupons for the purchase of qualifying appliances.

States have the flexibility to select which residential ENERGY STAR qualified appliances to include in their programs and the individual rebate amount for each appliance. DOE recommends that states and territories focus their program efforts on heating and cooling equipment, appliances, and water heaters as these products offer the greatest energy savings potential. ENERGY STAR qualified appliance categories eligible for rebates include: central air conditioners, heat pumps (air source and geothermal), boilers, furnaces (oil and gas), room air conditioners, clothes washers, dishwashers, freezers, refrigerators, and water heaters.

Additionally, the Louisiana state government will undertake a "lead-by-example" initiative, providing funding for energy efficiency retrofits for state government buildings, along with funding to encourage the deployment of efficient LED traffic lights and photovoltaic street lighting across the state. The state will also provide local governments with funds to cover a portion of the incremental costs of purchasing alternative-fuel mass transit vehicles and will fund a portion of the equipment costs for four publicly-accessible quick fuel compressed natural gas (CNG) fueling stations, providing essential support for the use of alternatively-fueled vehicles.

After demonstrating successful implementation of its plan, the state will receive more than $35 million in additional funding, for a total of nearly $72 million.

For more information on these and other Recovery Act related funding opportunities, visit the U.S. Department of Energy's Recovery and Reinvestment Web site.

I Need a HERO

2009-07-03T13:28:00.007-05:00

As the economy gets tighter and our wallets get thinner, people are looking for ways to cut costs and take advantage of the newest incentive programs. One of those programs unique to Louisiana is the HERO (Home Energy Rebate Option) program. The details can be complicated, so here’s an overview to help determine if it’s time for you to get a HERO...

HERO is under the direction of the Louisiana Department of Natural Resources (DNR). Its purpose is to encourage individuals who have an existing home to make energy efficiency improvements that will significantly reduce energy usage. In a nutshell, HERO provides a maximum $2,000 cash incentive based on the before-and-after assessment of the energy efficiency improvements of your home.

Here are some basic guidelines that must be met before qualifying for HERO:
1. Only existing homes are eligible.
2. The home must be a single residence or a duplex (no larger than a duplex).
3. The home must be located in Louisiana.
4. If replacing the HVAC condenser, it must be upgraded to at least a SEER 13.
5. The home must be 30% more efficient after improvements (verified by a before and after audit done by a 3rd party certified HERO rater)

This is where homeowners get a bit disoriented. The HERO process is not a simple list of items to check off before receiving a $2000 check from the state. It is also not an air conditioner replacement rebate. (There is a federal tax credit for this – see www.energystar.gov ).

The HERO program exists to encourage homeowners who are already committed to doing a large amount of (usually quite expensive) energy efficiency related improvements to call a professional rater who can help them get the most for their money. A certified HERO/RESnet rater is trained to understand how homes work as a system. They can give expert advice on improvements that maximize performance and provide good indoor air quality while maintaining durability. It’s easy to get information overload from salespeople pushing “efficiency” products. The rater acts as 3rd party to help wade through the bulk of information and determine what is best for a particular home. A rater’s advice comes at a price, depending on the size of the home and the extent of services they offer. This is where people usually get a shocked look on their face and cry out, “But that will cut into my rebate!”

Yes, it will. However, remember that the goal of HERO is not to reimburse the money you spend on improvements. It is to encourage you to hire a professional that can help you make decisions about improving your home. The net reward is a lower utility bill and a more comfortable and healthy place to live.

So what type of homeowner is best suited for HERO? Each house is so different, but there are a few similarities between HERO candidates. Ask yourself the questions below:
1. Are you planning on spending at least 8 to 10 thousand dollars on energy efficiency improvements to your home within the next 6 months?
2. Is your home at least 15 years old?
3. Are you replacing your old heating and cooling system (Indoor and outdoor)?
4. If yes, is your heating and cooling system 10 years old or older?
5. Are you replacing your ductwork?
6. Are you adding insulation in the attic?
7. Are you adding insulation in your walls?
8. Are you replacing your water heater?
9. Are you replacing at least 25% of your windows?
10. Are you planning on sealing places that leak air into the home?

If you answered “yes” to questions 1-3 and “yes” to at least 2 of the others, you are probably a good candidate. If you answered “yes” to only one or two questions, it may be very difficult to qualify your home for HERO. In fact, only 25 of the 30 percentage points needed to qualify for HERO can come from replacing your heating and cooling system (that’s why the program is not an A/C replacement rebate).

Let’s say you answered quite a few “yeses” to the previous questions and you’d like to move forward. Here are your next steps:

1. Call a certified HERO rater such as LaGrange Consulting BEFORE making any improvements.
2. The HERO rater comes to your home and does an initial inspection of your home’s energy efficient features – insulation, windows, water heater, ductwork, heating and cooling system, etc.
3. The rater performs a air leakage test and a duct leakage test using blower door equipment.
4. The rater sketches a rough blueprint of your home with measurements taken on site.
5. The rater has you fill out paperwork required by the state for the HERO program and collects payment for their services.
6. The rater goes back to his/her office, builds a computer model of your home with all the data collected. The computer program produces a “HERS score” which is an energy efficiency score for your home. This is the benchmark from which you will have to improve 30% (30 points). For example, a 25 year old home with few upgrades might net a score of 185 before improvements. After improvements, that score must drop at least 30 points to 155 to qualify for HERO.
7. The rater puts together a list of improvements that are recommended for your home and sends it to you.
8. You get bids on the improvements and send the estimates to the rater
9. The rater uses the improvements and their costs to build an upgraded computer model of your home and compares it to the existing model. The information is sent to the state where your rebate money is reserved for 6 months.
10. You make the recommended improvements over the next 6 mos. and keep copies of all your receipts. Throughout the process, the rater should be a good source of information for advice as you make more detailed decisions on making improvements.
11. When you are finished making improvements, call the rater and schedule a final audit.
12. The rater returns, collects copies of your receipts, conducts a 2nd inspection to confirm that the improvements were made properly. The rater also repeats the blower door test and duct leakage test.
13. The rater returns to his/her office and updates the computer models based on your improvements. The rater sends the information to the state, which has 60 days to process your rebate check. The check is sent to your address.
14. You enjoy your much more efficient and comfortable home.

How the final rebate amount is calculated:
The HERO rebate is based on the LOWER of 2 numbers:
1. 20% of the cost of improvements (maximum of $2000) OR
2. 20% of the estimated savings you will reap over the next 20 years (maximum of $2000).
Because a lot of factors vary between improvements (estimated useful life, for example) your final rebate may be less than the full $2,000. Your rater can estimate a rebate amount after the initial energy audit. Remember that HERO helps you get the right information for your home while making it a better place to live.

If you are ready for an energy efficiency overhaul, call LaGrange Consulting (985-845-2148). We will get you scheduled for a HERO audit, help reduce your monthly bills and make that wallet a little healthier.

St. Tammany Home Show This Weekend

2009-06-12T15:16:00.002-05:00

The St. Tammany Home Builders are hosting their annual Home Show this Saturday and Sunday (June 13 & 14) at the Castine Center in Mandeville’s Pelican Park (click here for map). The Home Show will be open from 10 to 5 on Saturday and 11 to 4 on Sunday. This is a family-friendly event with prizes, balloons and face painting.

As always, there will be a terrific variety of vendors and booths – everything from solar energy supplies to interior design. A number of presenters will also be giving talks and demonstrations on the main stage throughout the weekend. I’ll be speaking Saturday (2 – 2:30) and Sunday (11:30 – 12) on the specifics of HVAC equipment and ductwork tune-ups.

Please come and visit me at the CLECO booth (#611) – I’ll be happy to discuss any and all of your energy efficiency concerns! I’ll be at the booth from 1-5 on Saturday and 11-4 on Sunday (unless I’m giving a presentation or getting my face painted). Looking forward to seeing you there!

Visit the St. Tammany Home Builder’s website for a $1 off admission coupon and more information.

Trash Talk

2009-05-29T14:44:00.003-05:00

Energy efficiency is a great way to ensure that we are using our available resources in the best way possible, but there are plenty of other areas of our lives where we can conserve as well. Reducing and recycling our waste not only conserves landfill space, it also means fewer garbage trucks on the road and better air quality. The recycling industry in our area has been getting back up to speed since Katrina, but up until now we’ve had limited options.

One local recycling handler is trying to get the word out again and encourage folks to get back on the recycling bandwagon. Phoenix Recycling serves Orleans, Jefferson and St. Tammany Parishes. They charge $15 per month to collect plastics, paper, cardboard and aluminum (no glass). All of the materials they collect are taken to the recycling facility in Baton Rouge for processing. To find out more about their services, go to the Phoenix Recycling website or call or e-mail Perry (504-322-7551).

For other waste that you might not be so sure about, such as CFLs, batteries and computer equipment, you can visit Earth911 to locate an area recycler.

Being mindful, responsible consumers goes a long way to improve both our lives and the quality of our environment.

Shelter From the (Next) Storm

2009-05-22T12:28:00.004-05:00

By now, most of us are weary veterans of hurricane evacuations. Given the difficulty of decamping - especially for elderly residents - more and more people are deciding to "ride out" future storms.

One alternative available for folks living outside of flood zone or storm surge areas is a reinforced in-house safe room. Safe rooms are a structurally reinforced step beyond the “interior-room-without-a-window” that can provide protection against both hurricanes and tornados. The key to a well-built safe room is connection - the roof is securely anchored to the walls, the walls to each other, and the foundation to the frame. Reinforced doors and a ventilation source round out the package.

The LSU Agricultural Extension Center’s demonstration house located in Baton Rouge contains a working model of a modified (non-FEMA standard) safe room.

The walk-in sized master bedroom closet was installed with upgraded anchors, sheathing, fasteners and doors that are designed to resist 150-mph wind. The LAHouse is open to the public (click here for hours of operation) and free information is available on all of the features, materials and methods that were used in the construction.

Safe rooms can be installed as an interior retro-fit, a reinforced home addition or a separate structure. FEMA publication 320, Taking Shelter from the Storm, includes information and plans for an in-residence shelter. FEMA 320 can be viewed on-line or ordered free by calling 888-565-3896.

Commercially manufactured shelters are also available (Google “hurricane safe room” for websites). Shelters which have been successfully tested for debris impact resistance by Texas Tech are listed on the “Tested Shelters” page.

Most homes that are built on a concrete slab are suitable for a safe room retrofit. Existing windowless rooms within the home, such as closets, bathrooms and utility rooms are good candidates. Material costs for an 8'x8' room are usually less than $2500, including door and hardware. Raised homes are not as easily retrofitted, however, a shelter which doubles as a windowless mud room, study, etc. can be built adjacent to the home.

Homeowners who receive a disaster assistance loan from the U.S. Small Business Administration (SBA) to repair or rebuild a damaged or destroyed home may use some of the loan proceeds to construct a safe room. The SBA can also increase the approved disaster loan by up to 20 percent to cover the cost of adding a safe room. The U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development is providing mortgage insurance to enable homebuyers to borrow up to $5,000 to create windstorm shelters in their homes.

Bugs Gone Wild

2009-05-15T16:43:00.002-05:00

It’s that time of year again when we witness the Daytona Spring Break of the bug world – our Annual Formosan Termite Swarms.

In our area we have two basic flavors of termite – native subterraneans and imported Formosans. Both types swarm, but the natives do it during the day so they are not quite as obvious. Formosans wait until sunset to emerge and then gather around brightly lit areas. Within a few hours of taking flight, the male and female termites pair off, shed their wings and look for a place to set up a home. As hospitable as we are down here, we’d rather it not be ours.

Like some of our other charming imports (fire ants and kudzu come to mind), Formosans are aggressive and built for speed. They nest in a concentrated area as opposed to the natives, who spread out a bit more. This clustering behavior leads to a developed colony in a shorter amount of time - a typical Formosan nest holds around ten times the number of termites as a native colony of the same age. Faster breeding leads to faster chewing. A mature colony can consume up to 13 ounces of wood a day and severely damage a structure within three months.

Another element of Formosan behavior that sets them apart is their construction of above ground nests. Unlike the native subterranean termites, Formosans are amenable to setting up shop in trees (live or dead), boats and buildings. This makes them much harder to track down and eradicate.

Speaking of eradication…. As horrifying as they are, the termites that participate in the swarms are not actually harmful until they land and breed. The key to keeping them at bay is consistent yearly inspections and/or treatments of liquid repellents and baits. Treated wood by itself will not repel termites – they find it unappetizing, but it doesn’t usually keep them from moving on to the cellulose buffet of structural framing. They also must eat a lot of the treated stuff to cause any significant damage to the colony.

Termite wannabes…In that funny way that nature has of imitating itself, there is a local species of winged ant that will begin swarming soon that closely resembles subterranean termites. The ants usually swarm during the day and collect near areas of water such as swimming pools. If you have good eyes (or a magnifying glass) you can tell the ants apart from the termites by their body shape and wings. The ants have three distinct body sections (a head and two segments) – termites only have two ( a head and tubular body). Both insects have two sets of wings, but the ants’ upper wings are significantly longer than the bottom. Termites’ wings are all the same length.

If you’d like more insight into the Termite Mind, the LSU AgCenter has excellent information, pictures and publication cards on their website.

So keep your home inspected and treated and remember - this too shall pass. And then it will be hurricane season.

Dangerous Times

2009-05-08T22:07:00.007-05:00

With the summer heat comes big summer plans for vacations, grilling, swimming and outdoor fun. I’ve put together a quick list of websites that lay out some tips for keeping your home, friends and family safe over the next few months.

This government website covers information from asbestos to well water and a number of interesting things in between. Click here

Everything you might possibly want to know about summertime fire hazards from the folks at the Nation Fire Prevention Association. Fireworks, natural disasters, lightning strikes and more - sounds like a family reunion to me! Click here

Who else (besides your mom) could make grilling weenies sound as dangerous as gator wrestling? The insurance industry, of course! These sites truly do have some common sense advice about a number of topics including lawnmowers, pool safety, camping and securing your home. Click here and here

And for Everything Else, you can always count on the Worst Case Scenario books to keep you covered – How to Remove a Broken Lightbulb from a Socket (might need that one), How to Disguise a Beer Belly (know others who need that one) and How to Survive Nuclear Fallout (hope to avoid that one). Click here

Here’s to a safe and happy summer...and thanks to all the moms out there who watch over us while we grill our hot dogs and wrestle gators. Happy Mother’s Day!

First-time Homebuyer Tax Credit

2009-04-03T14:54:00.005-05:00

The excerpts below are from the March 18, 2009 IRS Newsletter about tax credits for first-time homebuyers. The information outlines specific qualifying conditions as well as options for the claiming tax credit :

“…the Internal Revenue Service today began a concerted effort to educate taxpayers about additional options at their disposal to claim the new $8,000 first-time homebuyer credit for 2009 home purchases. For people who recently purchased a home or are considering buying in the next few months, there are several different ways that they can get this tax credit even if they’ve already filed their tax return.

First-time homebuyers represent a significant portion of existing single-family home sales. The expansion in the first-time homebuyer credit will make it easier for first-time homebuyers to enter the housing market this year.

Under the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act of 2009, qualifying taxpayers who purchase a home before December 1 receive up to $8,000, or $4,000 for married individuals filing separately. People can claim the credit either on their 2008 tax returns due April 15 or on their 2009 tax returns next year.

The filing options to consider are:
• File an extension. Taxpayers who haven’t yet filed their 2008 returns but are buying a home soon can request a six-month extension to October 15. This step would be faster than waiting until next year to claim it on the 2009 tax return. Even with an extension, taxpayers could still file electronically, receiving their refund in as few as 10 days with direct deposit.
• File now, amend later. Taxpayers due a sizable refund for their 2008 tax return but who also are considering buying a house in the next few months can file their return now and claim the credit later. Taxpayers would file their 2008 tax forms as usual, then follow up with an amended return later this year to claim the homebuyer credit.
• Amend the 2008 tax return. Taxpayers buying a home in the near future who have already filed their 2008 tax return can consider filing an amended tax return. The amended tax return will allow them to claim the homebuyer credit on the 2008 return without waiting until next year to claim it on the 2009 return.
• Claim the credit in 2009 rather than 2008. For some taxpayers, it may make more financial sense to wait and claim the homebuyer credit next year when they file the 2009 tax return rather than claiming it now on the 2008 tax return. This could benefit taxpayers who might qualify for a higher credit on the 2009 tax return. This could include people who have less income in 2009 than 2008 because of factors such as a job loss or drop in investment income.

The IRS reminds taxpayers the amount of the credit begins to phase out for taxpayers whose modified adjusted gross income is more than $75,000, or $150,000 for joint filers. Taxpayers can claim 10 percent of the purchase price up to $8,000, or $4,000 for married individuals filing separately.

For more information, including guidance for people who bought their first homes in 2008, visit IRS.gov. To learn more about the overall implementation of the Recovery Act, visit http://www.recovery.gov/.

The Great Drywall of China (Part 2)

2009-04-01T13:17:00.010-05:00

Given the current slow housing market, perceptions of reduced home values and our on-going recovery from the beating the insurance companies gave us, it’s understandable that this latest issue over tainted Chinese drywall has gotten our attention. It is important to keep in mind, though, that only a limited amount of material made it to our area.

Companies in Florida have been working to track the material through shipping invoices and Department of Commerce records. Their current information shows that the majority of the material wound up in Florida, however, a portion did make its way to our region. Due to reduced demand, little or no Chinese drywall has been used in last 18 months.

The Florida Department of Health is conducting an on-going study of the drywall and its health effects. Their current data can be found on-line (click here). The most recent test examined the physical makeup of the drywall and gases emitted from the materials. The analysis compared one sample of domestically produced drywall with three samples of potentially contaminated Chinese material. Chinese samples showed higher organic content and emitted a “distinct sulfur odor…when heated during the test.” Chinese materials also contained strontium sulfide in trace amounts. Based on information in the Merck Index, strontium sulfide has the odor of hydrogen sulfide in moist air. Both imported and domestic samples emitted volatile sulfur-containing compounds from the paper and the gypsum, however the samples were unsealed during transport and were sent in the same package, creating the possibility of cross-contamination. (Link to the full study) The US Consumer Product Safety Commission is also conducting its own investigation but has not published any results.

Identifying the Problem

Any problems due to the defective drywall would be noticeable in a short amount of time. The Florida Department of Health has published the following guidelines for determining if a house has drywall related issues:

Homes constructed after 2003 (2004 to present) must meet two or more conditions; and those built between 2000 and 2003 must meet three or more of the conditions specified below.
1. There is presence of sulfur-like or other unusual odors
2. Confirmed presence of Chinese manufactured drywall in the home
3. Observed copper corrosion, indicated by black, sooty coating of un-insulated copper pipe leading to the air handling unit
4. Documented failure of air conditioner evaporator coil (located inside the air handling unit)
5. Confirmation by an outside expert or professional for the presence of premature copper corrosion on un-insulated copper wires and/or air conditioner evaporator coils (inside the air handling unit)

In addition, I recommend checking the copper wiring on electronics, appliances, outlets and switches. Be sure to turn off the breaker to any outlets or switches before removing their covers or handling the wiring. Also take a good look at any exposed copper plumbing – a water heater enclosed in an indoor mechanical closet would be a great candidate.

The pictures below show an evaporator coil, piping and wiring that have been affected by corrosive gases.

If you can confirm that your house has developed drywall related issues, please be sure to get out and talk with your neighbors. After the storm, many contractors worked heavily in specific neighborhoods and other people may be affected as well. Legally, it is a homeowners responsibility to bring any defects to the builder or contractor’s attention.

Our next blog will discuss some measures you can take if your home is experiencing drywall related problems or similar issues.

The Great Drywall of China (Part 1)

2009-03-27T16:21:00.002-05:00

Before we examine the Chinese drywall issue in the next blog, I thought I would give a little background on how the material is produced – it gives some insight into the current situation.

The basic component of sheetrock is gypsum (calcium sulfate, CaSO4). Gypsum comes from one of two sources – it can either be mined in its raw form or collected as a by-product of coal-powered electricity generation and other processes. As part of environmental regulation, coal-powered utilities are required to remove (“scrub”) sulfur dioxide (SO2) vapor from their exhaust gases. In order to do this, finely ground lime (CaO) or limestone (CaCO3) is mixed with water to form a slurry, which is sprayed into the power plant’s exhaust stacks. The calcium in the slurry materials chemically binds with the sulfur from the exhaust gases to form calcium sulfite (CaSO3). This material is commonly referred to as Flue Gas Desulfurization (FGD) by-product. In many cases the sulfite is further oxidized to produce more marketable calcium sulfate (CaSO4).

Because this form of material comes from a production process, it is known as “synthetic gypsum.” Both mined gypsum and FGD/synthetic gypsum are nearly chemically identical, so many domestic sheetrock companies work closely with coal-powered utilities to collect and utilize the material. This has economic and environmental benefits for both parties. Prior to use, FGD gypsum is routinely screened for impurities such as fly ash which can discolor sheetrock products. Domestic manufacturers of sheetrock use about one and a half million tons of synthetic gypsum a year, which accounts for about 7% of its overall gypsum use.

Other manufacturing processes produce different forms of synthetic gypsum. Titanogypsum is a by-product of the paint industry and is considered safe for use in sheetrock products. Other safe synthetics include fluorogypsum and citrogypsum. Some synthetic gypsums, such as phosphogypsum, are considered unsuitable for reuse due to the potential presence of radon and radionuclides.

To produce sheetrock, the gypsum, water and additives are mixed together and fed between continuous layers of paper. The mixture quickly bonds mechanically and chemically to the paper as it sets up into its solid “board” shape. Panels are then cut and moved through a dryer to remove trace moisture.

Given the fact that sulfur is one of the basic elements of sheetrock compound, it is easier to understand how unsuitable sulfur materials could have made their way into the Chinese production process. Visit the Gypsum Association and FGD Products websites for more information on synthetic gypsums and sheetrock.

Roof Leaks and Spray Foam

2009-03-20T15:57:00.004-05:00

If you’ve looked at spray-foam insulation for your attic lately, you’ve surely heard the pros and cons about open cell versus closed cell foam. For attic installations I always recommend open-cell foam for one overwhelming reason – roof rot. Every roof will develop a leak at some point in its life. How a roof assembly handles the incoming water can mean the difference between a $200 repair job and a $2,000 spot replacement.

To highlight how pervasive this situation can be, think back to all of the roofs replaced after Hurricanes Katrina, Gustav and Ike. How many times did you hear about contractors uncovering rotten wood from small or unknown roof leaks? These small leaks can exist for years without detection – primarily because the water seeps through the deck and dries to the interior of the attic. Because roof leaks are inevitable, it makes sense to create unvented attics with materials that have the same ability to dry out.

Open and closed cell foam differ broadly in two ways - flexibility and impermeability. Closed cell foam is rigid and resists water, open cell foam is flexible and allows water to pass through. When a roof leak develops, the impermeable closed cell foam traps water and holds it against the roof decking. Over time this leads to a large, rotten section of roof decking that will have to be replaced. Open cell foam, on the other hand, allows any water from a roof leak to weep through the foam and dry out in the space below. After the roof leak is repaired, the open cell foam will dry out and regain its thermal properties. Open cell foam’s permeability allows leak detection and repair with minimal or no damage to the insulation.

In addition to these differences between open and closed cell foam, open cell foam is usually less expensive than closed cell foam. For more in-depth information, go to Energy and Comfort Solutions.

Getting Credit for Good Decisions

2009-03-13T22:55:00.008-05:00

As one of our economically savvy customers recently pointed out, your home may be your best investment these days. While CDs and savings accounts are paying only meager returns and the stock market is still in its “volatile” state, improving your home is nothing but win-win all around.

The new stimulus bill signed by President Obama on February 17th of this year included some updates for energy efficiency improvements on existing homes. All of the credits available for 2009 have been extended into 2010 and the credit amount has been raised from 10% to 30% up to a maximum of $1,500. The previous cap was $500. So, basically you can spend up to $5,000 during that 2 year period, and get 30% or $1,500 back as a tax credit.

The products covered under the new bill are limited to:

Windows, Skylights and Doors (including French Doors and Sliding Glass Patio Doors) –The minimum efficiency requirements increased significantly for all of these, so be sure you understand what you need before you start shopping.
Insulation
Roofs (Metal and Asphalt)
HVAC (including installation costs)
Water Heaters (non-solar) (including installation costs)
Biomass Stoves

To claim the credit, products must be “placed in service” in a principal residence between January 1, 2009 and December 31, 2010 and must conform to certain efficiency standards (see the Energy Star website for product details). Each product must have a Manufacturer Certification Statement (available from the manufacturer or their website) to qualify. Consumers won’t need to file the Certification Statement with the IRS tax form 5695 but are encouraged to keep a copy with their tax records in case they are ever interrogated. I mean audited.

Remember - the new credits come along with some new rules and deadlines. Be sure to check that the product you are buying qualifies for the tax credit - not all Energy Star products meet the minimum qualifications. Call the manufacturer before you buy! It's always best to consult with a CPA if you have any other questions about how the tax credit applies to you.

For specific information on efficiency standards for each product, visit the Energy Star website.

The Steamy Side of Energy Efficiency

2009-03-06T17:14:00.005-06:00

A few simple steps can help improve your water heater’s energy efficiency.

If your current water heater has a R-value of 24 or lower, adding a low-cost insulation blanket will help reduce heat losses. R-value information is usually listed on the tank itself or in the owner’s information paperwork. Insulation blankets can be installed on both gas and electric water heaters, however, look over the information on the Energy Star’s webpage for specific instructions in each case.

An 80 gallon tank with R-16 insulation will waste around 30 kwh per month in heat loss during the winter time (120 degree water, 60 degree attic). In our area, electricity costs $0.13 per kwh, which amounts to losing $11.70 in those months (30 kwh x $0.13 x 3 months). Considering that you can purchase a tank blanket for around $20 from the local home improvement stores, you can recoup your “investment” in two years or so. For more details and information on the calculations shown above click on this link.

Depending on the distance between the tap and the tank, it can take a good while for hot water to reach the faucet. This is because all of the water sitting idle in the piping cools off quickly. Insulating as much of the hot water supply piping as you can reach along with the first 10’ of pipe entering the tank will reduce these losses. Water in insulated pipes stays around 2 to 4 degrees warmer, which means you can also lower your thermostat settings. The added bonus is a shorter wait time for that nice, steamy shower, which saves you on your water bill as well.

Pipe sleeves are available for $1.20 to $5.30 per 6’ length from most home improvement stores. Be sure to match the sleeve’s inner diameter to the pipe diameter to a good fit. Install the sleeve with the seam facing down and seal along the seam with foil (not duct) tape. On gas water heaters, keep insulation at least 6 inches from the flue.
Great articles on heat loss in water pipes can be found at these websites: Water Pipe Cooling and Energy Star.

Insulating the tank and piping means you can also lower your thermostat temperature, since you won’t have to compensate for heat losses. For each 10ºF reduction in water temperature, you can save between 3%–5% in energy costs. Lowering the temperature also slows sediment buildup and corrosion in the tank and pipes.

Electric water heaters have both an upper and lower thermostats which should be adjusted to maximize the convection loop inside the tank. Set the upper thermostat to 125 degrees and the lower one to 115 degrees. Thermostats on electric tanks are usually positioned behind screw-on plates or panels. As a safety precaution, shut off the electricity to the water heater before removing/opening the panels. The thermostat dial for a gas water heater is typically found near the bottom of the tank on the gas valve.

To check that you are getting the correct water temperature, mark the beginning setting and the adjusted temperature on the thermostat dial. After turning it down, check the water temperature with a thermometer at the tap farthest from the water heater. You may need to make a few adjustments before you get the right temperature.

Electric water heaters can save an additional 5%–12% in utility costs with a programmable thermostat. This turns the heating element off at night and back on before hot water is needed in the morning. They can cost $60 or more, but will pay for themselves within a year or two when used with an insulated tank and piping.

The last, but not least, thing you can do so save on the life and efficiency of the water heater is to perform regular maintenance including flushing the tank and replacing the sacrificial anode. The high operating temperature of water heaters encourages the precipitation of calcium carbonate, which settles and builds in the bottom of the tank. In gas-heated tanks, this sediment creates a barrier between the gas burner and the water, which results in longer heating times and lower fuel efficiency. Sometimes the bottom of the tank will overheat, weakening the tank steel and glass lining and reducing the life of the tank. In electric water heaters, the sediment layer can completely bury the lower element, causing it to burn out. This requires the upper element to heat the full tank of water, wasting energy and money.

To drain and flush your water heater, turn off the gas or electrical power and let the water cool down. Close the incoming water valve and attach a hose to the drain valve to run the water into a large bucket, or drain to the outdoors. Open the drain valve, and turn on one hot water faucet somewhere in the house to let in air. When all the water has drained, turn the cold water valve on and off until the water from the drain runs clear. Then close the drain valve and the hot water faucet, open the cold water valve, and turn the water back on.

Tank flushing is also a good time to check the condition of the sacrificial anode and replace it if necessary. Be sure to check your owner’s manual for instructions on the how, what and when for your particular tank’s maintenance.

Get your bi-annual check-up (HVAC Maintenance Checklist)

2009-03-02T16:44:00.001-06:00

This article comes directly from the Energy Star website, but is an invaluable tool in making sure your HVAC service company is making the most of their service visits and that you are doing all you can to maintain the units in your home. Take a look...

Maintain your equipment to prevent future problems and unwanted costs. Keep your cooling and heating system at peak performance by having a contractor do annual pre-season check-ups. Contractors get busy once summer and winter come, so it's best to check the cooling system in the spring and the heating system in the fall. To remember, you might plan the check-ups around the time changes in the spring and fall.

A typical maintenance check-up should include the following.

-Check thermostat settings to ensure the cooling and heating system keeps you comfortable when you are home and saves energy while you are away.

-Tighten all electrical connections and measure voltage and current on motors. Faulty electrical connections can cause unsafe operation of your system and reduce the life of major components.

-Lubricate all moving parts. Parts that lack lubrication cause friction in motors and increases the amount of electricity you use.

-Check and inspect the condensate drain in your central air conditioner, furnace and/or heat pump (when in cooling mode). A plugged drain can cause water damage in the house and affect indoor humidity levels.

-Check controls of the system to ensure proper and safe operation. Check the starting cycle of the equipment to assure the system starts, operates, and shuts off properly.

Cooling Specific

-Clean evaporator and condenser air conditioning coils. Dirty coils reduce the system's ability to cool your home and cause the system to run longer, increasing energy costs and reducing the life of the equipment.

-Check your central air conditioner's refrigerant level and adjust if necessary. Too much or too little refrigerant will make your system less efficient increasing energy costs and reducing the life of the equipment.

-Clean and adjust blower components to provide proper system airflow for greater comfort levels. Airflow problems can reduce your system's efficiency by up to 15 percent.

Heating Specific

-Check all gas (or oil) connections, gas pressure, burner combustion and heat exchanger. Improperly operating gas (or oil) connections are a fire hazard and can contribute to health problems. A dirty burner or cracked heat exchanger causes improper burner operation. Either can cause the equipment to operate less safely and efficiently.

Actions To Do Yourself
-Inspect, clean, or change air filters once a month in your central air conditioner, furnace, and/or heat pump. Your contractor can show you how to do this. A dirty filter can increase energy costs and damage your equipment, leading to early failure.

Geothermal Tax Credit

2009-02-27T15:57:00.005-06:00

Now there’s one more reason to consider upgrading to a geothermal heating and cooling unit – the new American Recovery and Reinvestment Bill of 2009 has removed the previous $2,000 tax credit cap. Homeowners who install a geothermal heat pump system can now claim the entire 30% tax credit, no matter the cost of their unit. Any system installed from January 1, 2009 through December 31, 2016 is eligible.

Unlike a tax deduction, which lowers the amount of income on which taxes are assessed, a tax credit is taken right off the bottom line of taxes due. To qualify for the credit, the geothermal system must meet Energy Star requirements, which include minimum standards for the Energy Efficiency Ratio and Coefficient of Performance based on the type of unit (see The Energy Star website for details.)

No proof of purchase or additional tax forms are needed to claim the credit, although owners are encouraged to keep all documentation of their purchase for possible audits. The product invoice should specifically note that the unit is a “geothermal heat pump” and state that the system “meets or exceeds requirements of the Energy Star program currently in effect.” Specifics on the Bill and other alternative energy tax credits can be found at this link

Although geothermal systems still have higher up-front costs compared to conventional heat pumps (units run $4,000 to $9,000 per ton for geothermal, $2,200 to $3,200 per ton for conventional), there are a number of reasons, including long-term savings, to go with geothermal:

• Up to 70% reduction in heating/cooling bills
• Lower maintenance
• Longer system life (an average of 24 years for geothermal vs. 15 years for gas furnaces and 18 years for conventional air source heat pumps)
• Free hot water heating with a waste heat recovery accessory
• Quieter operation (no noisy outdoor unit)

Geothermal heat pump technology has been around for the last 40 to 50 years. I’ve seen systems here in Louisiana that were at least 30 years old and still going strong. For more detailed information on geothermal workings, see our blog entry.

Is a "Tight' House a Healthy House?

2009-02-18T16:05:00.003-06:00

We had some great discussions this past Thursday at the seminar I presented for the Southeastern University Green Living Series. The overall topic was on energy audits, but there were a lot of interesting questions touching on a wide variety of subjects. One issue in particular – “how airtight should a house be?” – sparked a lot of debate. Here’re my two cents:

Make your house as airtight as possible. You DO need outside air to come inside, but it should come in through the HVAC system outdoor air duct. Then it can be filtered, dehumidified and come from a controlled source.

At any given time, a “leaky” house can draw in:
1) humidity which encourages mold, increases utility bills and makes the house uncomfortable
2) heat or cold which, again, raises utility bills
3) allergens such as dust and mold, and
4) toxins such as weed and pest sprays.

One vivid example we talked about is a home’s sill plate – the bottom section of wall framing that lies on top of the foundation. On the outdoor side of a slab house, a sill plate is very close to moist soil and plants. It’s also where the termite exterminator sprays. When the inside of the house goes into negative pressure (vacuum) because of an exhaust fan, power vent, fireplace fire or leaking ductwork, the “vacuum” draws in outdoor air from any available source. If that “source” is a leaky, semi-sealed sill plate, then you’ve just pulled in humidity, heat, mold and some termite insecticide along with that outdoor air. Not ideal.

The best way to keep your home “healthy” is to seal all of the leaks possible and bring outdoor air inside in a controlled way. This is not a do-it-yourself type of job – an HVAC service person is needed to install an inlet pipe and filtration unit that is compatible with a home’s existing heating and cooling system. The “source” air is an important factor as well – keep inlets away from the roof or hot, humid outlets (such as dryer vents and chimneys).

I always enjoy helping folks with questions about their homes. If you’d like to come to one of the Green Living Seminars, the next ones will be March 5 and March 12. You can find more information about both presentations on the SLU website (click here).

Better Out Than In, I Always Say

2009-02-13T21:09:00.002-06:00

Hands down, one of the most common “errors” I see on routine energy audits involves exhaust fans.

The first mistake is venting exhaust fans directly into the attic. The purpose of these fans is to remove heat, humidity and other objectionable vapors from indoors. Venting into the attic contributes to the buildup of humidity and dirt, which in turn finds its way back into the house through leaking ductwork and ceiling penetrations. Exhaust fans should always have ducting run from the fan outlet to the nearest soffit opening.

Before installing ducting, check the fan to make sure that dampers are in place and installed correctly. Correctly installed dampers remain closed when fans are not running. Better-quality dampers have interior rubber gaskets that create air seals when the damper is closed as well as exterior gaskets that create a tight seal with the ducting. Dampers are available through local Heating/Air Condition Supply houses.

The second-most common mistake is not USING the exhaust fans. Exhaust fans should be turned on every time moisture is created and allowed to run long enough to remove humidity. Towels, walls and cabinets retain moisture and then release it slowly, keeping room humidity high even when water is no longer in use.

The Home Ventilating Institute (www.hvi.org) recommends that exhaust fans remain on for at least 20 minutes after room use. Using an automatic timer is a good way to achieve this, especially for households with young children. A number of timers are available including manual “countdown” timers, electronic delay timers and programmable timers. Other options include speed controls for varying air flow, occupancy sensors and humidity sensors (de-humidistat).

Switches and timers can be used in combination to provide the most effective ventilation for each room.
The key to selecting the right control is to consider how the space is used, at what times and by how many people.

Window Shopping

2009-02-03T13:36:00.010-06:00

Windows have come a long way during the last 40 years in terms of energy efficiency and maintenance. If your current windows have aluminum framing or single-paned glass, it may be time to consider replacement windows.

The first thing to check is the soundness of the framing. If the elements around the window – jambs, sills, trim and siding - are free of rot or other problems, you can go with pocket windows (also known as frame-and-sash or replacement windows.) Rot or moisture issues call for new-construction windows installed in the rough openings.

Good measurements are key in window replacement. Even if you have a sales rep or contractor coming to your house, be sure to have your own notes to double check their work. Each window should be individually measured for height (left, right and middle), width (top , middle and bottom) and diagonal (both ways to check for square). Each replacement window will be sized according to the smallest measurement.

The most energy efficient framing materials are vinyl or fiberglass, but there are also clad-type frames (wood indoors, vinyl outdoors) that do a good job. In our hot-humid climate, double-paned, insulated glass with a low-e coating will provide the most thermal protection. Single-paned, clear (no coating) glass leaks energy like a sieve.

When shopping, the numbers you’ll need to compare are called U-Factor and Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC). A U-Factor rates the heat conductivity of the window assembly from 1.0 to 0 - the lower the U-value, the better. The Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC) measures how well the window blocks infrared heat – again, lower is better. Energy Star windows for our climate zone must have a U-Factor of 0.65 or less and a SHGC of 0.4 or less. Every window should have a National Fenestration Rating Council (NFRC) label showing these values.

One last important piece of information you’ll need is the window’s Wind Rating. This is the design standard for wind loading in extreme wind events such as hurricanes. Ratings are specific to location and can be found on the International Residential Code (IRC) Wind Hazard Zone map for Louisiana. Click here to see more information from the LSU AgCenter on Louisiana Wind Hazard Zones.

Proper installation of your replacement windows will have a large impact on their energy efficiency. Improperly installed windows leak lots of energy, air,humidity, and rain water making a house uncomfortable and more expensive to maintain. The do-it-yourself route is only for folks with some experience in carpentry or larger household projects. A short tutorial on installing your own replacement windows can be found on the Lowe’s website. Hiring a contractor is probably the best choice for most homeowners – installers typically guarantee their work for a year. There is currently no industry standard for replacement windows, which means that “workmanship” is open to a lot of interpretation. Hire a contractor who has experience installing replacement windows and can provide local references for their services.

Efficient Windows Collaborative and Energy Star are both excellent sites for more information on replacing windows.

Upcoming Seminar Appearance

2009-01-20T14:42:00.003-06:00

Southeastern University's St. Tammany Center and St. Tammany Parish are teaming up to provide energy efficiency and money saving seminars in the upcoming months. My staff and I are pleased to be part of this effort and will be presenting our ideas to help local homeowners with their energy improvements. Please see the press release below for more information on dates and times.

Easy Ways to Reduce Your Utility Bills
Seminars Start February 5

St. Tammany Parish and Southeastern Louisiana University's St. Tammany Center are pleased to announce a series of public education seminars, “Saving Money through Green Living”. The seminars will be held from 9:30 a.m. to 11:30 a.m. in Room 327 at Southeastern Louisiana University's St. Tammany Center in Mandeville, 21454 Koop Drive, near Louisiana 59 and Interstate 12.

The first session, “Simple Changes and Money Saving Ideas”, will be offered on Thursday, February 5, and will be repeated on Thursday, March 5. It will present do-it-yourself projects and easy lifestyle changes for anyone interested in reducing their utility bills and their impact on the environment. Topics include: heating and air conditioning, insulation, weather-stripping, radiant barriers, water heaters, thermostats, caulking, and compact fluorescent lighting.

The second session, “Home Energy Audits and Green Refunds”, will be held on Thursday, February 12, and will be repeated on Thursday, March 12. It will feature local expert Paul LaGrange of LaGrange Consulting, who will explain how an energy audit is conducted, and why it is useful when making larger green upgrades to your home. Federal and state programs that help pay for these upgrades will also be discussed.

The cost to attend each seminar is $10. Please call (985) 893-6251 to register, or register online using this link.

Clothes Dryer Fires

2009-01-16T12:47:00.014-06:00

Friends of mine recently lost their home and everything in it because of a fire that started with the clothes dryer. It burned so hot and so quickly that it warped the structural steel beams. Thankfully, she and her family are safe, but recovering from this overwhelming loss will take them a long time.

According to various sources, there are around 13,000 fires related to residential clothes dryers annually. Each year they cause an estimated $88 million in loss, 300 injuries and 15 deaths. Almost every single one of these fires could be prevented with some basic maintenance and awareness.

Strangely enough, it’s the seemingly harmless element of lint that makes these fires burn so fiercely. This innocent and cozy fluff ignites in a heartbeat because of its high surface area. Millions of small particles packed in a dryer duct provide ample fuel for igniting a house fire.

The first step in controlling lint buildup is to clean the lint screen every time you dry a new load of clothes. As a bonus, keeping the lint screen clean helps your clothes dry faster while using less energy. Even with regular cleaning, however, a large amount of lint makes its way past the screen and into the dryer duct. As the duct becomes clogged, it requires the dryer to work harder at higher temperatures. This situation leads to two causes of dryer fires - electrical malfunctioning and heat buildup.

Dryer ducting materials can hurt or help when it comes to dryer fires. Flexible ducts made of plastic or foil trap lint along their ridged surfaces and are prone to sagging, building up lint at low points. Plastic and foil ducts will also burn readily. Rigid or flexible metal is the safest dryer duct material – it reduces lint buildup and can help contain a blaze if one starts. No matter what ducting material you use, keeping the inside of the ducting clear is crucial to preventing fires. Unplug the dryer and then use a vacuum to clean the entire length of the duct. While you’re at it, be sure to clean any lint behind or underneath the dryer as well any lint or cobwebs around the outlet.

If you are in the market for a new dryer, look for one that uses a moisture sensor instead of a typical thermostat to end the automatic cycle. A moisture sensor keeps the dryer from running longer than necessary, which saves money and keeps excess lint out of the system. If you already have a dryer with a moisture sensor, clean it periodically with some rubbing alcohol on a soft cloth to keep it working properly. Sensors have two slightly curved metal strips and are typically located inside the dryer.

A couple of final notes on dryer safety:
Be careful when laundering clothes that are stained with volatile chemicals like gasoline, solvents or oils. It is best to wash them several times to get out as much of the chemicals as possible and then hang them up to dry. Many of us use the laundry room to store our cleaning products, which are highly flammable and will make any fire that much worse. Try to find another area for Mr. Clean to live - away from electrical or heat sources. Lastly, avoid running the dryer when no one is home or when everyone is asleep. Adding a high temperature range heat detector to the laundry room is also a good idea.
More information on clothes dryer fires can be found on the National Fire Protection Association’s website.

Rigid or flexible metal ducts are safer because they do not sag and trap lint.

Foil and plastic ducts encourage lint buildup. The resulting clog restricts air flow, reducing the dryer’s efficiency and increasing the possibility of a fire.

The above pictures are from the Consumer Reports website:
Consumer Reports.org. Feb. 2008. .

Santa Loves a Chiminea

2009-01-06T13:42:00.002-06:00

For those of us with fireplaces that old Christmas tree is looking like a handy source of firewood, but in fact it’s one of the worse things you could do to your chimney. Most people have never even heard of chimney fires, but they do happen in our area. Given the catastrophic damage they can do in a very short amount of time, its well worth knowing a little something about how they happen.

Chimney fires occur when built-up creosote inside a chimney ignites. Creosote forms from the condensation of wood burning by-products (smoke, water vapor, hydrocarbon gases, tar fog and minerals) along the inside of the chimney flue. This material catches fire easily and produces fires of 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit – hot enough to melt mortar, crack tiles and cause liners to collapse.

Chimney fires are classified as either "slow-burning" or "free-burning." Slow-burning chimney fires smolder inside the chimney due to restricted air or smaller amounts of fuel. Their low-key presence can be potentially more dangerous because they build up heat rapidly with no obvious signs of damage. Compromising the flue leaves the house more vulnerable in the event of another chimney fire. Free-burning chimney fires are loud and dramatic, producing noise, dense smoke, and an intense, hot smell. Sparks and hot materials shoot out of the top of the chimney, which can in turn ignite roofing or nearby trees.

If you notice signs of a chimney fire, get everyone out of the house, including yourself, and call the fire department. If sparks are coming out of the chimney, use a garden hose to spray down the roof (not the chimney) to keep fire from spreading to the rest of the house. Afterwards, call a CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep to inspect for damage. Chimney fire damage and repair normally is covered by homeowner insurance policies.

Do not use the chimney until it has been repaired! Using a damaged chimney can cause a number of problems such as flue gases and carbon monoxide backing up into the house, structural damage or a house fire.

The best defense against chimney fires is a good offense:
Have your chimney checked annually by a CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep and cleaned as needed. To locate a CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep www.CSIA.org, click here to visit the CSIA web page. This site has more information on chimney “health” and good safety practices. If you are about to buy or sell a home that has a chimney, be sure to get an inspection.

Build good fires! Use only dried, seasoned woods and build smaller, hotter fires that produce less smoke. (See the previous blog for fire-building information.) Never burn cardboard boxes, wrapping paper, trash or Christmas trees; these produce sparks and smoldering ashes which can spark a chimney fire. Always let the fire burn itself out. Extinguishing a fire too quickly causes thermal shock to the flue tiles. Thermal shock weakens the tiles, creating a more open pathway to the combustible materials of the house.

Creosote Sweeping Logs are available at local home improvement and hardware stores for around $15. These logs do not replace regular inspections but they can help maintain a cleaned, structurally sound chimney. Maintain a safe and healthy chimney so it will be ready for that one day a year when you Really Do Need It (when Santa comes to town) and save that Christmas tree for the chiminea. Best wishes and (belated) Happy Holidays!

Some Like It Hot

2009-01-02T11:47:00.005-06:00

Building a fire properly keeps your chimney “healthy” by reducing the amount of creosote buildup. It also ensures that your marshmallows come out “toasted” instead of “hickory flavored” - a good fire has minimum smoke and maximum warmth. Here are some recommendations on how to get that done:

Start with good materials…

Wet, “unseasoned” wood is hard to light, hard to keep burning and contributes to creosote buildup in chimneys. “Seasoned” wood has been cut, split and allowed to dry and makes for a much better fire. If you are buying firewood, be sure to ask how it was stored and for how long. Firewood should be seasoned for a minimum of one year (two to three is best) and the surface should look grey or dark. Well seasoned wood is brittle and will have cracks running through the cut surface.

Seasoning and moisture content are much more important than the type of wood. Seasoned soft woods like pine and fir will burn more quickly than hard woods. Contrary to popular belief, properly dried soft woods do not deposit more creosote in a chimney than hardwoods.

Build a good base…

Fires need plenty of oxygen from both the bottom and sides to burn well. Be sure that the flue damper and air inlets are open, the fireplace is clean (no ashes of previous fires) and the grate (or andirons) are in place. Crumple up six to ten full sheets of newspaper (no color pages) and push them under the grate. The paper should be loosely wadded – not compacted – so it can burn quickly. Place three to five sticks of fatwood kindling (specially treated, quick burning pine) on top of the grate. Place three smaller, well dried pieces of firewood on top of the kindling in a slanted pattern. Add another three pieces of similar firewood across the first layer, slanting them in the opposite direction. Light the paper sticking out along the edges and front of the grate. Let this assembly start burning well before you add any more firewood.

If the fire goes out or doesn’t start well do not despair. Your firewood may have gotten damp or have more water than expected. In this case, you can (carefully!) add more paper, using the poker to push it under the grate. The burning paper will help dry out the wood and it will eventually catch fire. DO NOT use flammable liquids such as gasoline, lighting fluid, or kerosene to start a fire.
Keep it going…

If your fireplace has a metal curtain, pull it across the opening to block sparks, but leave the glass doors open while the fire is burning. You should add more firewood as necessary to keep the fire going. Wearing a sturdy pair of welder’s gloves (available at hardware stores) and placing pieces carefully is preferable to tossing them from a distance. Avoid adding too much wood at one time – this will smother the fire you have going and create lots of smoke. If you make this mistake, use the fire tools to move wood off the top of the heap and stand it on end in the back corner of the fireplace. You can add it back on once the fire is burning again. Periodically shove the wood around a bit with a poker so that it gets air and burns evenly and completely.

Put it out…

You should never extinguish a (fireplace) fire by pouring water on it. Cooling a fire down quickly increases gas and water emissions and produces more creosote. It also causes thermal shock in the flue tiles which decreases their ability to insulate and protect the chimney.

It's best to let a fire burn out on its own, which can take anywhere from 10 to 15 hours. To speed things up you can use fire tongs to move unburned pieces of wood away from the coals. If possible, stand them on end in the back corners of the fireplace. Keep the damper open and the screen pulled until you know that the fire is completely out. Once it’s over, there should be no heat coming from the ashes and they should be completely gray.

Clean it up…

The last important step is cleaning the ashes out of the fireplace so that future fires will get enough air. Use a metal scoop and bucket in case any glowing embers remain. If you still have a few hot embers, you can add water to the bucket to put them out.

Ashes can be disposed of with the regular household trash, or – even better – used in your garden as an amendment. Wood ash has a high pH and acts in the same manner as limestone to balance our naturally acidic soils. The recommended application is 20 lbs of wood ash (around a 5-gallon bucketful) per 1,000 square feet of area. Wood ash acts much more quickly than limestone in raising pH, so be careful not to overdo it. If you have a lot of extra ash, you can add it to a compost pile.

Sweaty Window Woes

2008-11-26T16:05:00.004-06:00

Fall has reached Louisiana at last! The leaves are changing, the mornings are nice and frosty and our windows have started sweating again. So where did all of the “indoor rain” come from? In a word – dewpoint.

Dewpoint is the relationship between temperature and relative humidity that produces condensation. A small amount of condensation on windows is not desirable but okay – usually at the corners or edges of the pane – as long as it dissipates quickly. More serious problems occur when heavy condensation covers the window and drips onto the sill. Over time, this can lead to wood damage and even rot. Even when the indoor air feels fairly warm and dry to you, the window frame or glass can become cold enough to reach dewpoint, causing condensation. (See the chart at the end of this blog for more specifics.)

The previous blog focuses on one element of the dewpoint equation - sources and control of indoor relative humidity. In this blog, I’ll discuss the second element –cold window panes and frames and ways to “warm” them up.

Windows today come in a huge array of shapes and sizes, but the main components – the glass and frame – are still fairly straightforward. Heat conductivity in windows is measured as a U-value from 1.0 to 0 - the lower the U-value, the better the window. Normally this value includes both the glass and the frame as a unit but for our purposes we will consider them separately.

Window glass is either single- or double-paned (triple-paned is available but not as common in our area). Single paned glass is the poorest insulator with a u-value very close to 1.0. Depending on the age and style of your house, you probably have at least some areas of single-paned glass. The transom and “side lights” surrounding many front doors are a good example. Double-paned windows have lower (better) u-values for two reasons – the layer of air sealed between the panes acts as an insulator and the spacers that hold the pieces of glass apart are made of materials that are poor heat conductors. These spacers slow down the transfer of heat from indoor pane to outdoor pane, thus keeping the inside pane warmer.

Window framing comes in four basic flavors – aluminum, wood, vinyl, and fiberglass. Framing material is critical to heat loss because some materials such as aluminum actually lose more energy than the glass they surround. Below are some typical u-values for window framing materials (remember, lower is better):

Aluminum (no thermal break) 0.78 – 0.95
Aluminum (with thermal break) 0.65 - 0.75
Wood and vinyl 0.3 – 0.5
Insulated vinyl/insulated fiberglass 0.2 – 0.3

To reduce the amount condensation on your windows, you’ll need to do two things. Lower your indoor relative humidity and raise the temperature of the window. Suggestions for lowering the humidity levels can be found in the previous blog. Here are a few ideas on making your windows warmer:

First of all, check your window seals, particularly on the windows that sweat the most. Cold, outdoor air seeping around the frame will lower the temperature of the window dramatically, no matter what kind of frame you have. Make sure the exterior of the frame is well-sealed with caulking, the weatherstripping is in good condition and the frame latches securely.

Secondly, try to raise the temperature of the window by partially opening the blinds and curtains that cover the coldest, sweatiest windows. Yes, uncovering a cold window will mean some energy loss from your home, however, it may just save your sills from rotting and mold growing. Try different levels of coverage until you find the point where condensation reaches a reasonable level. Taking this approach allows interior air to warm the window and frame. In homes with floor-to-ceiling drapes, it also eliminates the micro-climate that actually encourages condensation. In those situations, air trapped behind long curtains continuously rises and falls as it is alternately warmed (by the heating system) and cooled (by the window).

If all else fails, consider adding Magnatite panes to the inside of the windows – particularly large expanses of single-paned glass - to increase the frame temperature, decrease infiltration and improve the overall insulation value.

How to use this chart: The box where your indoor air temperature and indoor relative humidity meet is the dewpoint temperature. In the highlighted example, a 45 degree window in a 75 degree room will reach dewpoint (form condensation) when the indoor relative humidity is 35%. In contrast, a 60 degree window in the same 75 degree room won't form condensation until the room gets up to 60% humidity.

Indoor Relative Humidity

2008-11-26T15:49:00.008-06:00

Relative humidity is the amount of moisture added to the air by one’s sweaty, talkative kinfolk. Just kidding. In fact, relative humidity is the amount of moisture that is actually in the air compared to the amount it could hold (when the temperature stays the same). For example, if 70 degree air is holding only half of the moisture that it could, the relative humidity is 50%. If that same 70 degree air is holding every bit of moisture possible, the relative humidity is 100% and it has reached its dewpoint.

Once relative humidity reaches dewpoint, water vapor condenses into visible droplets. This is what happens when your glass of iced tea “sweats” – even when the air feels fairly dry and comfortable to you, the surface of the glass is cold enough to lower the air around it to the dewpoint and cause condensation. If the temperature difference is large enough (75 degree room, 45 degree glass), it doesn’t take much relative humidity at all (35%) for the glass to reach dewpoint (check out the chart below for more dewpoint information).

[Air temperatures (in degrees F) are located along the left side of the chart. Relative humidity (in %) runs along the top. Where the two numbers meet is the dewpoint (in degrees F).]

Our bodies are comfortable with relative humidity levels between 30 to 60%. In comparison, our houses need a much narrower margin – 35% - 40% in winter and 40% - 55% in summer - to operate properly.

Even though our outdoor humidity levels remain fairly steady throughout the year, switching from air conditioning to heating makes a huge difference to interior humidity. Air conditioning involves removing water vapor (your outdoor mechanical equipment is called a “condenser” for a reason!) but heating the air simply adds warmth, so all of that moisture stays put. Raising the indoor temperature does drop the relative humidity somewhat (and creates that “dry” feeling), but our indoor habits like cooking, bathing, doing laundry and breathing add moisture right back into the air.

Here are some specific “culprits” that contribute to higher humidity:
Gas heating - Using propane or natural gas as a heat source actually adds water to the air. Approximately one ounce of water is released per 1,000 btus burned in one hour of runtime. A typical gas furnace for our climate uses around 75,000 btus, which produces a little over 2 ¼ quarts of water per hour of runtime.
Humidifiers
Houseplants
Breathing (1/4 cup water/hour)
Cooking (cooking for a family of four releases 5 pints of water over 24 hours)
Showering (1/2 pint water)
Bathing (1/8 pint water)

Adding only 4-6 pints of water will raise the relative humidity in a 1,000 square foot house from 15% to 60% at a constant temperature. A typical family of four, from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. (including heating) will add 16 pints of water to the air.

I highly recommend having an indoor moisture meter, or hygrometer (available at Radio Shack and pet supply stores in the reptile section), to monitor moisture levels. Given time, relative humidity balances itself throughout the house, however, certain rooms have temporarily higher humidity. Kitchens are definitely up on the list, as well as bathrooms. Also, rooms on the northern side of a house are slower to warm up and will maintain their higher relative humidity for longer, especially if air flow is restricted by closed doors. Knowing which parts of the house, if any, are more humid will help determine what course of action to take.

Next, see if changing some of your habits brings the humidity down:

Breathing – continue doing this
Plants – Reduce the number of plants per room, choose plants with low watering needs, water plants outdoors and let them drain thoroughly and use a dense mulch such as pea gravel on top of the potting soil.
Kitchen - Using lids on pots and pans, turning on the range hood fan and cooking with a microwave will reduce the moisture load. Don’t use the air dry setting on the dishwasher – it vents hot, humid air directly into the room. Instead, wait for the dishwasher cool down and then hand-dry wet dishes. Check for leaking pipes under the sink.
Bathroom – Make sure that exhaust fans have working dampers and truly vent to the outside of the house. Take shorter showers, if possible, and keep the bathroom door closed while the room is steamy. Open the door back up after the exhaust vent has removed most of the moisture.
Heating - If you use gas for heating, consider setting the thermostat lower.
Air circulation – Keep interior doors open to discourage moisture buildup in isolated areas.

Depending on how “leaky” your house is, even taking the steps above might not lower the humidity. In that case, I recommend using a dehumidifier to bring the levels down to an acceptable range.

"Saving Green" Public Education Seminar Next Week in St. Tammany Parish

2008-11-07T11:40:00.008-06:00

Southeastern Louisiana University’s local branch, the St. Tammany Center, is offering a public education seminar entitled “Saving Green – Energy Saving Tips” this coming Wednesday, November 12, from 9:30 to 11 am. The speaker is Elizabeth Barilleaux from LaGrange Consulting and she will be presenting information on Do-It-Yourself projects for anyone interested in reducing their utility bills and their impact on the environment. This is new information for homeowners that involves easy-to-understand building concepts, projects and products that can make a huge difference in your energy bills and the comfort level of your home. There’s nothing in this seminar that requires more from your toolkit than a screwdriver, a utility knife and a roll of duct tape.

The cost of the seminar is $10 and you can register either by phone (985-893-6251; M-F 8:am-4:30pm) or online. The St. Tammany Center is located off of Koop Drive in Mandeville – get directions by clicking on this link.

R.I.P. (Recycle In Peace) - Old Laptop Batteries

2008-10-30T13:07:00.009-05:00

Happy Halloween!

Once your old laptop battery finally gives up the ghost, recycling it is as easy as picking up a new one – and you can probably do it in the same place. Thanks to the “Mercury-containing and Rechargeable Management Act” enacted in 1996, 50,000 retailers throughout the U.S. accept rechargeable batteries for recycling.

The Act established the not-for-profit Rechargeable Battery Recycling Corporation (RBRC) which collects used rechargeable batteries through participating retailers. The RBRC then reclaims the metals from old products to create new batteries and stainless steel. They will accept rechargeable NiCad, NiMH, Lithium-Ion, Nickel-Zinc and small (under 2-lb) sealed lead-acid batteries. These batteries power most cellular and cordless phones, laptop computers, camcorders, digital cameras, bar code readers, portable printers, PDAs, two-way radios and cordless power tools. The RBRC program does not accept car batteries, silver- and zinc-based button batteries, or disposable alkaline batteries.

Laptop batteries are typically one of three types – Nickel Cadmium (NiCad), Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH) or Litihium Ion (Li-Ion). All three contain elements that qualify them as hazardous waste, so under no circumstances should you throw them out with your household trash. Recycling battery materials is not just a means to keep heavy metals such as cadmium and mercury out of landfills, soil and groundwater, it is also a method of producing future batteries with less waste.

For a list of drop-off points near you, go to the RBRC website and enter your zip code. My search returned 263 hits – including Best Buy, Office Depot and Radio Shack. The drop off is usually a box with the logo below shown somewhere on it. If you don’t see the drop box or have a specific question, be sure to ask for the store manager.

Recycle wisely, and may the ghosts in the machine never come back to haunt you!

Converting a Gasoline Generator to a Natural Gas or Propane Generator

2008-09-29T12:26:00.004-05:00

Many people in the southern portions of Louisiana reacted to hurricanes Katrina and Rita in 2005 by stocking their garages with gasoline powered generators. Most of those generators sat idle until this year’s storms, Gustav and Ike. However, as many people tried to rev up their generators for their first real chunk of time, a new set of concerns set in: fuel shortage and fuel storage. Gasoline, without preservatives added to it, does not store well. It tends to gum up the carburetor when left too long, leaving some folks with a generator, but still no power. Then there are the mile long lines at the gas station and you can only store so many of those red 5-gallon cans in your trunk on your visit to that gas station, not to mention the hazards of transporting gasoline.

All of these concerns gave rise to a new generation of generator questions. No longer are people asking, “What’s the best generator to buy?” We’ve now moved on to, “How do I convert my gasoline-powered generator to a natural gas or propane generator?” Fortunate for us hurricane-prone folks, there are some fairly straight-forward answers. Here they are…

1. There are conversion kits that you can install on your gasoline generator to convert it to use natural gas or propane, either of which can be easily stored for a very long time without preservatives. Go to http://www.propane-generators.com or http://www.propanecarbs.com to order these kits or speak with your local generator store or propane provider to see if they have conversion kits for sale. They may often be much cheaper than you would find online.

2. For those of you wanting to buy a new generator (maybe you’re upgrading to a bigger one or replacing a broken one), consider purchasing a dual-fuel or tri-fuel generator. Dual-fuel runs on propane and gasoline and tri-fuel runs on gasoline, natural gas, and propane. You can see the previously noted websites to order these generators. Natural gas and propane are not the only fuel alternatives. Think about bio-fuel and diesel when purchasing a new generator. These may also be easier fuels to use and find during a disaster.

Gasoline burns much dirtier than natural gas and propane, so switching fuels can not only benefit you, but it can benefit the environment also. Go to this link http://www.propane-generators.com/benefits.htm to see some of the many benefits of converting your generator. Also, this site, http://www.propanecarbs.com/dualfuelconversion.html, has a terrific step by step picture demonstration of how to convert a gasoline generator.

Be careful if you are installing the kits yourself as some generators may need alterations to the carburetor when converting fuels. Also propane and natural gas are highly combustible, so caution should always be used when these fuels are involved. I also suggest checking with the generator manufacturer to see if the warranty is affected when the fuel type is changed.

Best of luck and may we all never have to use the generators we’ve purchased!

Better Bonding Through Science

2008-09-13T06:00:00.017-05:00

Every time a serious hurricane heads our way, it seems we're looking to hold it together in more ways than one. HurriQuake nails - named the 2006 Popular Science Innovation of the Year - have the potential to strike at least one major item off your list. They were specifically designed by Bostitch engineer Ed Sutt to save a house from the harshest disasters it faces over a (hopefully) long life.

During hurricanes, most nail failures happen in one of two ways - withdrawal or pull-through. High winds create an uplift, or vacuum, effect that either draw the nail out of the rafter entirely (withdrawal) or pull the plywood off over the head of the nail (pull-through). HurriQuake nails overcome both of these shortcomings with patented designs of the nail head and shank. A HurriQuake nail has 25% more effective nail head area than a standard nail. The shank has barbed rings for gripping power, a smooth midsection to resist high shear stresses and a slight twist near the top to lock it in place. According to the Bostitch website, this fastener is rated for hurricane wind conditions and gusts up to 170 mph. By their estimation, a 2,000 square-foot house requires 8,000 sheathing nails which retail for approximately $50-60. The use of HurriQuake nails adds only $30 to this expense.

Although it may seem like a no-brainer to anyone who ever built their own treehouse or fort, poor fasteners can ruin a project. That fact was not lost on engineer Ed Sutt when he first started sifting through wreckage after 1995's Hurricane Marilyn for clues about the causes of structural failure. The following excerpts are from the Popular Science article spotlighting Dr. Sutt's work on the HurriQuake nail:

For more than two centuries, nails have been the fastener of choice for wood-frame structures. But for all that is riding on nails, they have been the focus of precious little R&D. Nails have evolved into a grab-whatever’s-cheapest commodity, taken for granted by contractors and engineers.
...Sutt discovered that the most effective way to strengthen a house was to improve its fasteners, especially the nails that hold the roof and wall sheathing to the frame. “I began to see that the engineers and building-code writers had been missing the point. Everyone had always just accepted that a nail is a nail. No one was focusing on what we could do to make the connection better.”
Tests conducted by researchers at Florida International University and the International Code Council—the independent building-safety standards organization—confirmed that the HurriQuake has more than twice the “uplift capacity” of standard power-driven nails. Other independent tests showed that the HurriQuake can double a typical home’s resistance to high winds and add up to 50 percent more resistance to earthquakes.
“This is a major innovation,” says Tim Reinhold, director of engineering for the Institute for Business and Home Safety, an insurance-industry research group. “And in places that are affected by high winds and earthquakes, it looks like it’s going to make a big difference.”
“Homeowners and insurance companies are going to love these nails,” [Dr. Schiff of Clemson University] says. “But contractors are going to hate them, because when they make mistakes, it’s not a trivial thing to remove them. Once you nail something together, it’s going to stay together.
“To us, that’s a good thing.”

Click here for some great interactive slides on the HurriQuake nail by Bostitch.

Click this link to see the full the Popular Science Articleon the HurriQuake Nail as the 2006 Innovation of the Year.

"HurriQuake Disaster Resistant Fasteners." Innovation Spotlight. Bostitch. 10 Sept. 2008 www.bostitch.com/xhtml/interactive_hurriquake/hurriquake_show.html

Clynes, Tom. "Pop Sci Innovator: Dr. Nail vs. The Monster." Popular Science. 2006. 10 Sept. 2008 .

Hiring a Mold Remediation Contractor

2008-09-12T06:00:00.005-05:00

When it comes to contractors, we always want to get the best service at the best price, but sometimes it's difficult to know what questions to ask. The following article was written by Dr. Joseph Laquatra of Cornell University and Dr. Claudette Reichel of the LSU AgCenter to help people choose the right contractor for their mold remediation jobs. LaGrange Consulting is available to answer questions about moisture damage and to perform moisture and thermal scans to ensure that any work you have done is done properly. View the Hiring a Mold Remediation Contractor brocure directly for more information.

Hiring a qualified contractor for mold remediation is not required but is generally safer and more effective than a “do-it-yourself” approach because of the use of specialized equipment. In either case, you should carefully follow safety precautions to reduce exposure to mold. These include the use of protective clothing, a respirator, and eye protection.

A list of licensed mold remediation contractors from the Louisiana State Licensing Board for Contractors’ web site is available at www.lslbc.state.la.us. Since July 1, 2004, any person who makes an offer to bid on or contract projects requiring mold remediation services valued at $1 and up in Louisiana must hold a Mold Remediation Contractor’s License with the State of Louisiana Licensing Board for Contractors. To obtain a license for this type of work, a contractor must meet certain educational requirements. In addition, Louisiana requires that professionals who apply any biocide also need a pesticide applicator’s license from the Louisiana Department of Agriculture.

A professional contractor should follow specific procedures and use equipment recommended by the National Center for Healthy Housing. Read up on the Recommended Steps for Mold Cleanup in Flooded Homes listed in the prior blogs so that you can evaluate proposed procedures and make the best decision when hiring a contractor for mold remediation.

The Contract

The following points should be included in a contract with a mold remediator:

• Diagram or survey that details square feet, rooms, or sections of the area in which remediation will be done.
• Specific amount of time it will take to complete the remediation work.
• Itemized list of materials (e.g., lumber, wallboard, carpet and padding, paint) required to complete the remediation.
• Who (homeowner or contractor) will provide the renovation materials.
• How the contaminated materials will be handled and whether the homeowner or contractor will remove debris from the site.
• Detailed warranties of work and guarantees on remediation.
• Cleanup procedures and products to be used as well as a cost breakdown and total price cap.

Obtain at least three estimates before signing a contract. Ask for proof of education or training sessions on mold remediation and check with the education or training firms specified to determine that the contractor has actually completed the program or certification. Ask for references from clients for whom the contractors have performed mold remediation work.

Removing Mold

Remediation professionals remove mold using a variety of methods depending on the size and complexity of the contamination as well as the technology available to the contractor. A widely followed remediation protocol is the Environmental Protection Agency’s Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buildings, available online at www.epa.gov/mold. The basic methods and principles are a good guide for professional remediation of any building, including homes, so it’s a good idea to review this document.

Another commonly relied-upon set of containment guidelines are those developed by the New York City Department of Health. The guidelines outline four levels of contamination based on the size of the infected area and a fifth for contaminated HVAC systems.

• Level 1 (10 sq. ft. or less): remediation usually involves cleaning and salvaging non-porous materials with a detergent solution and removing non-salvageable contaminated porous materials.

• Level 2 (10–30 sq. ft.): same steps as Level 1, plus covering working areas in plastic and tape before remediation and using a High-Efficiency Particulate Air (HEPA) filter before restoration begins.

• Levels 3 (30–100 sq. ft.) and 4 (over 100 sq. ft.): involve specialized techniques for removing hazardous materials.

• Level 5: used for contaminated HVAC systems. Mold remediation specialists typically use HEPA filters, cleaners, wet vacuums, HEPA vacuums, biocides (disinfectants), and Personal Protective Equipment (PPE). Safety precautions are paramount in mold remediation to prevent both exposure to and spread of hazards. Gloves, fitted goggles, disposable protective clothing, and a professionally fitted respirator typically are needed to protect individuals involved in remediation.

Techniques used by some professionals to remove mold include, but are not limited to, gamma ray irradiation, steam cleaning, and washing with a detergent and bleach solution. A study of these techniques found the detergent and bleach solution to be the most effective, followed by gamma ray irradiation. Some firms use other techniques and products such as blasting with sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) to remove mold and inhibit its regrowth, or “tenting” with chlorine dioxide gas to kill mold without gutting and discarding materials. It is not yet known, however, to what extent such methods remove the risks posed by the residue of dead mold, chemical reactions, or long-term effects on the building materials.

New technological developments in the cleaning and restoration industry have led to an increasing number of companies in the field. The variety of choices can make it difficult for consumers to be certain the company they contract with will be worth the
investment. Thus experts suggest working with businesses certified by organizations such as the Association of Specialists in Cleaning and Restoration (www.ascr.org), the Institute of Inspection, Cleaning, and Restoration Certification (www.certifiedcleaners.org), or the American Indoor Air Quality Council (www.iaqcouncil.org).

More Thoughts on Mold

2008-09-11T06:00:00.002-05:00

Here is some more great information from Dr. Claudette Reichel of the LSU Ag Center about how to get rid of mold growth in your home. LaGrange consulting can also answer any questions you may have about moisture damage and can perform infrared and moisture scans with specialized equipment if you feel you might have a problem.

Mold tends to grow where it is wet for more than two or three days. The longer it grows, the greater the hazard and the harder it is to control. So, once it’s safe to enter your home, begin cleanup and dry-out right away. If the wood in your house stayed wet a long time, it’s also important to check for decay and termite damage. Replace all soft or damaged wood.

If you hire a contractor to remove mold, choose a state licensed mold remediation contractor with special training and equipment such as big dehumidifiers and HEPA vacuums. A list of licensed mold remediators is available from the Louisiana State Licensing Board for Contractors (online at www.lslbc.state.la.us). Get information in writing about the cost, methods and steps that will be used. Compare their process with the do-it-yourself guidelines (outlined in yesterday's blog).

Anyone without special equipment and training should clean-up mold (please see yesterday's blog) as safely and thoroughly as possible. Before you start, it’s a good idea to take pictures for insurance purposes, but don’t wait for the claims adjuster to see the damage before work begins. Mold can spread fast.

It’s important for you to know some commonly misunderstood facts about using bleach:
1st - If the area is dirty, the bleach can get spent reacting with the dirt before it gets a chance to kill the mold, so you should clean first, then disinfect.
2nd - The bleach may need to contact the mold 15-30 minutes to kill it.
3rd - Bleach doesn’t eliminate health hazards because dead mold can have the same health effects as live mold. Still, dead mold doesn’t reproduce or grow.
4th– A bleach treatment won’t keep new mold from growing again if the material stays wet.
5th – Bleach itself is hazardous and some people are very sensitive to it. It should not be used on metals or the air conditioner. Never mix bleach with anything that contains ammonia or an acid, since that would produce toxic fumes.

While the walls are open is a prime time to protect your wood framing from termites and decay by spraying at least the bottom two feet with a borate solution. The type of borate solution that penetrates the wood over time is more expensive but offers greater protection. Borate treatments and other fungicide coatings can help inhibit mold regrowth during a long drying process.

For most, sanding studs to remove any remaining dead mold takes much more time and effort for little benefit. Since mold does not grow into solid wood, just cleaning, and disinfecting (optional) is usually enough.

NEVER apply sealants that can slow down drying. Structural materials that are hard to remove or clean (such as “blackboard”, OSB sheathing, rough surfaces, etc.) can be painted with latex paint or fungistatic coatings (such as zinc based paints) to “encapsulate” any remaining mold and reduce its release to the air.

Restore with Water Resistant Materials.
If possible, “wet floodproof” your home so it can survive a flood or major leak with a lot less damage to your home – and your life.
• Use closed-cell spray foam insulation or rigid foam insulation that does not absorb water.
• Choose solid wood or water-resistant materials (composites, plastics, fiber-cement, etc.).
• Install wiring and equipment higher.— above potential flood risk.
• Consider having walls with removable, cleanable wainscoting or paneling.
• Use paperless drywall that does not provide a food source for mold.
• Use restorable flooring such as ceramic tile, solid wood, stained concrete, etc.

For more information on mold, call EPA's Indoor Air Quality hotline at 1-800-438-4318.

Mold on the Mind

2008-09-09T15:31:00.011-05:00

The following information is from the LSU Ag Center's Fact Sheet "Mold- Important Questions, Objective Answers" by Dr. Claudette Reichel. If you suspect water damage in your home, LaGrange Consulting can help with with moisture diagnostic and infrared imaging services to assess the situation.

An abundance of conflicting information and media coverage about hazards of mold and how to handle mold problems has left many people confused, concerned, and sometimes frightened. If you have or suspect a mold problem in your home, this fact sheet will help you make well-informed decisions about how to fix the problem and prevent its return.

What Is Mold?
Molds are a category of fungi. They serve as nature’s recycler by helping to break down dead materials. Molds produce tiny cells called spores that float and spread easily through the air, so they are just about everywhere. Live spores act like seeds, forming new mold growths (colonies) when they find the right conditions – moisture, nutrients (nearly anything organic) and a suitable place to grow. Of these, moisture (in either liquid or gas form) is the key factor – for growth and for control.

Should I Be Concerned About Mold In My Home?
Although mold spores are everywhere, especially in a humid climate, mold colonies should not be allowed to grow and multiply indoors. Mold problems can result in damage to materials and health problems. The longer mold is allowed to grow indoors, the greater the risk and the harder it is to remedy. So, if you find mold in your home, don’t delay correcting the problem.

HEALTH HAZARDS
Will mold in my home make us sick?
Exposure to molds can affect health. People are mainly exposed by breathing spores or other tiny fragments. People can also be exposed through skin contact (for example, by touching moldy surfaces) and by eating mold contaminated food.
The types and severity of health effects from mold vary widely and are usually hard to predict. It depends on the sensitivity of the person, the amount and type of exposure, the length of exposure, the types of mold and many other factors. Because it is typically not possible to establish a clear dosage and response threshold or trigger point, there is not enough scientific evidence to prove cause and effect for many of the potential or suspected health risks of indoor mold problems.
The most common health problems caused by indoor mold are allergic reactions. People who are allergic or sensitive to mold commonly report: nasal and sinus congestion, coughing, wheezing/breathing difficulties, sore throat, skin and eye irritation, sinus and upper respiratory infections. Both live and dead mold spores can affect people.
Although there is wide variation in how different people are affected by indoor mold, long term or high exposure may eventually become unhealthy for anyone. Exposure to mold can trigger asthma attacks, may suppress the immune system or have other effects.

Who is most at risk?
At greater risk of being affected more severely and sooner than others are: infants and children, elderly people, individuals with respiratory conditions or sensitivities such as allergies and asthma, and persons having weakened immune systems (for example, people with HIV infection, chemotherapy patients, organ transplant recipients).
If you feel your or your family’s health is affected by indoor mold or you have special health concerns that increase your risk, you should visit and tell your doctor or health professional about your symptoms and mold exposures.

What is “toxic mold” and is it dangerous?
Some types of mold can produce harmful chemical compounds (called mycotoxins) in certain conditions, but don’t always do so. Molds that are able to produce toxins are common. If a toxin is produced, it may be present in live and dead spores and fragments in the air.
Although potential damaging effects of specific mycotoxins are known and varied, identifying a mold that can produce mycotoxins does not tell you whether or not you have been or will be exposed to a toxin. Still, all indoor mold growth is potentially harmful and should be removed promptly, no matter what type of mold is present or whether or not it can produce a toxin.

What is “black mold” and isn’t it the most dangerous type?
“Black mold” is a misleading term since many types are black. It has become a popular label for Stachybotrys, a toxigenic mold that has received major media attention for its suspected, yet unproven, connection to serious conditions and infant deaths. This type of mold is not as common as others since it grows only on cellulose (wood, paper, etc.) that has stayed very wet for at least a week.

MOLD INVESTIGATION
How Do I Tell If I Have A Mold Problem?
First and foremost, inspect. The most practical way to find a mold problem is by using your eyes to look for mold growth and wetness, and by using your nose to locate a suspicious odor. If you see mold or if there is an earthy or musty smell, you should assume a mold problem exists. Other clues are signs of excess moisture or the worsening of allergy-like symptoms. A moisture detector can be a helpful tool.
Look for visible mold growth (may appear cottony, velvety, granular or leathery and have varied colors of white, gray, brown, black, yellow, green). Mold often appears as discoloration, staining or fuzzy growth on the surface of building materials or furnishings, or behind vinyl wallpaper.

Should I Test For Mold?
When mold is visible, testing is usually not needed nor even recommended. Instead, you should simply assume there is a problem whenever you see mold or smell mold odors. Testing should never take the place of visual inspection and it should never delay or use up resources that are needed to correct moisture problems and remove the mold.

When Is Testing Useful?
Sometimes, mold growth is hidden and difficult to locate. In such cases, a combination of air (outdoor and indoor air samples) and bulk (material) samples may help determine the extent of contamination and where cleaning is needed. However, mold testing is rarely useful for trying to answer questions about health concerns. Some insurance companies and legal services may suggest sampling as a form of documentation of microbial contamination. Professional mold remediation contractors may test before and after clean-up to provide evidence of the clean-up’s effectiveness. These situations should be addressed on a case-by-case basis.

MOLD REMEDIATION
How Do I Fix a Mold Problem?
To clean up and remove indoor mold growth in small quantities, follow these steps as they apply to your home. (Refer to the EPA guidelines: A Brief Guide To Mold, Moisture, and Your Home or Mold Remediation In Schools and Commercial Buildings available online at www.epa.gov/iaq)
• Find the cause of excess moisture and correct it
• Seal off the work area from the rest of the house and ventilate it to the outdoors
• Cover (to prevent spore release), remove and dispose of mold contaminated materials
• Clean surfaces
• Speed drying of wet materials
• Remain on mold alert

Find and Fix the Moisture Problem
The most important step in solving a mold problem is to identify and correct the moisture sources that allowed the growth in the first place.
Common Sources of Moisture Problems Include:
• Flooding, inadequate maintenance and failure of building materials and systems
• Roof leaks
• Leaks at windows or other wall openings
• Plumbing leaks
• Overflow from tubs, sinks, toilets or drainpans
• Firewood stored indoors
• Humidifier use
• Inadequate venting of kitchen and bath humidity
• Improper venting of combustion appliances
• Failure to vent clothes dryer exhaust outdoors
• Line drying laundry indoors
• House plants - watering them can generate large amounts of moisture
• Condensation (caused by indoor humidity that is too high or surfaces that are too cold)
• Duct system leaks
• Oversized air conditioners (that don’t remove enough humidity)
• Water movement through slabs and foundations; poor drainage around house
• Water vapor driven through walls from hot to cool sides
• Dead air spaces (where air doesn’t move much)

Drying the Indoor Environment:
To keep indoor surfaces as dry as possible, try to maintain the home's relative humidity between 30-60 percent. You can buy basic relative humidity monitors at some home supply or electronics stores. Important ways to control high humidity, condensation and other moisture problems in a warm, humid climate include: seal outside air leaks and duct leaks, use properly sized air conditioners and heaters, insulate or warm cold surfaces, avoid vinyl wallpaper, improve drainage to keep rainwater away from the foundation, inspect and fix roof and window flashing flaws, provide airspace between exterior walls and mirrors, pictures or furnishings, reduce moisture sources inside the home, and when needed, use a supplemental dehumidifier

Seal off Work Area and Ventilate to Outdoors:
Disturbing mold colonies can cause a massive release of spores. To reduce the spread of mold spores to the rest of the home, seal off the contaminated area. Cover central air registers and outlets with plastic and seal gaps around doors. Place a fan in a window of the work room to exhaust air to the outdoors.

TAKE STEPS TO PROTECT YOURSELF
Using protective equipment when handling mold contaminated materials is a wise precaution. The following equipment can help minimize exposure to mold:
• Rubber gloves and eye goggles
• Outer clothing (long sleeves and long pants) that can be easily removed in the work area and laundered or discarded
• Medium-efficiency or high-efficiency filter mask (can be found at safety equipment suppliers, hardware stores, paint stores or some other home centers) -- at a minimum, use an N-95 or equivalent mask or respirator
Remove And Dispose Of Mold-Contaminated Materials:
Items which have absorbed moisture (porous materials) and which have mold growing on them need to be removed, bagged and thrown away. Such materials may include gypsum wallboard, insulation, plaster, carpet/carpet pad, ceiling tiles, processed wood products (other than solid wood) and paper products. Likewise, any porous materials that have contacted sewage should also be bagged and thrown away. Non-porous materials with surface mold growth may be saved if they are cleaned well and kept dry.

TAKE STEPS TO PROTECT OTHERS
Take steps to minimize the amount of dust generated. Plan to keep all susceptible people (children, seniors, and those sensitive to indoor contaminants, including people with compromised immune systems) out of the area to help minimize their potential for exposure. The following actions can help minimize the spread of mold spores:
• Cover mold with plastic to contain spores before removing moldy material
• Enclose all moldy materials in plastic (bags or sheets) before carrying through the home
• Hang plastic sheeting to separate the work area from the rest of the home
• Remove outer layer of work clothing in the work area and wash separately or bag
• Damp clean the entire work area to pick up settled contaminants in dust

Clean Surfaces
Surface mold growing on non-porous materials such as hard plastic, concrete, glass, metal and solid wood can usually be cleaned. Cleaning must remove and capture the mold contamination, because dead spores and mold particles still cause health problems if they are left in place
• Thoroughly scrub all contaminated surfaces using a stiff brush, hot water and a non-ammonia soap/detergent or commercial cleaner. Use a non-phosphate cleaner or rinse thoroughly to completely remove any phosphate residue (which can provide food for new growth)
• Collect excess cleaning liquid with a wet/dry vacuum, mop or sponge
• Rinse area with clean water and collect excess rinse water
After cleaning has removed all visible mold and other soiling from contaminated surfaces, you may choose to use a disinfectant to kill any mold missed by the cleaning, if you and others are not sensitive to the disinfectant. In the case of sewage contamination, disinfection must be performed. Contact your local health department for appropriate advice.

• On color-fast, non-metal surfaces, you can disinfect with a solution of 1/4 to 1/2 cup bleach per gallon. Do not use bleach in the air conditioning system.
• Milder and less corrosive disinfectants include alcohols, disinfecting cleaners and hydrogen peroxide. Follow directions carefully.
• Collect any run-off of bleach solution with a wet/ dry vacuum, sponge or mop. However, do not rinse or wipe the bleach solution off the areas being treated -- allow it to dry on the surface.
• Always handle bleach with caution. Never mix bleach with ammonia -- toxic chlorine gas may result. Bleach can irritate the eyes, nose, throat, and skin. Provide fresh air. Protect skin and eyes from contact with bleach. Test solution on a small area before treatment, since bleach is very corrosive and may damage some materials.

Speed Dry Wet Materials:
Dry any materials that are wet as soon and quickly as possible. Use fans and dehumidifiers, if possible, and move wet items away from walls and off floors. Check with equipment rental companies or restoration firms to see if you can rent fans and dehumidifiers. New mold colonies can form in as little as three days if cleaned materials stay wet. Wood and other materials that may look dry can still be damp enough to support regrowth.

Remain on Mold Alert
Continue looking for signs of moisture problems or return of mold growth. Be particularly alert to moisture in areas of past growth. If mold returns, repeat cleaning steps and consider using speed drying equipment and moisture meters to ensure sufficient dryness. Regrowth may signal that the material was not dry enough, should be removed, or that the source of the
moisture problem is not corrected.

When Can We Rebuild?
Rebuilding and refurnishing should wait until all affected materials have dried completely. Be patient. It takes time to dry out wet building materials. Be sure to continue dehumidification and watching out for telltale signs that the moisture problem might be recurring.

Can Ozone Air Cleaners Remove Indoor Mold?
Some air cleaners are designed to produce ozone, which is a strong oxidizing agent and a known irritant of the lungs and respiratory system. Studies have shown that ozone, even at high concentrations, is not effective at killing airborne mold or surface mold contamination. Even if mold were killed by ozone, the health threats would not be reduced until mold contaminants are removed through cleaning. Health experts do not recommend the use of ozone to address mold or any other indoor air problems.

Where can I get more information about mold and indoor air quality?
Following are web sites with useful information and resources. When seeking information or services, carefully consider the credibility or potential bias of the source.

Asthma/Allergies

http://www.epa.gov/iag
EPA –Indoor Air Quality Clearinghouse has information on many IAQ issues involving asthma.

http://www.aaaai.org/defalult.stm
American Academy of Allergy Asthma and Immunology – educational information about allergies and asthma.

http://www.aafa.org
Asthma and Allergy Foundation of America – educational information about asthma and allergies.

http://www.lungusa.org
American Lung Association –information, research, publications on asthma, allergies and respiratory health.

Biological Contaminants (including mold)

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/homecare2/data/hc2.html
North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service – Home Care has information on removal of mildew and carpet odor

http://www.cdc.gov/nceh/airpollution/mold
Centers for Disease Control and Prevention – Provides information about indoor air quality, including mold.

http://www.epa.gov/iaq/molds/moldresources.html
EPA – Comprehensive list of mold resources and publications.

http://www.cal-iaq.org/mold9803.htm
California Dept. of Health Services – Indoor Air Quality Information Sheet for people who have water damage to their home.

References:
EPA, A Brief Guide To Mold, Moisture, and Your Home , [EPA 402-K-02-003]

EPA, Mold Remediation In Schools and Commercial Buildings, [EPA 402-K-01-001, March 2001]

Delaware Health and Social Services Division of Public Health, Breathe the Difference: Mold in Your Home

For information on many other topics, visit the web sites: www.LousianaHouse.org and www.lsuagcenter.com

Going Solar (Pt.1)

2008-01-10T10:30:00.001-06:00

pThinking about going solar? Here are four steps that can help you get the best from pursuit of the best solar situation for your home.

STEP ONE: DETERMINE YOUR ENERGY USAGE

Have you read your energy bill lately? Your energy bill supplies a plethora of information necessary to determine exactly what your energy usage is. Comparing bills from the last winter and last summer can give you an idea of your yearly usage.

STEP TWO: DO YOUR RESEARCH

Some questions to ask yourself when shopping for Solar Panels should be:

1)How many panels do you need to support your daily kWh usage?

2)How much battery supply do you want? Typically two days worth will suffice in the event of extreme cloudiness.

3)How many appliances run on a continual basis? How many watts will they use when operating?

4)Don’t forget to add additional wattage for extra items you do not use on a regular basis.

STEP THREE: MINIMIZE YOUR USAGE

Before you make the switch to Solar panels, consider reducing your energy usage by making energy efficient improvements. Consult a professional (like LaGrange Consulting) who can provide a full energy audit and tell exactly where your home is “leaking” energy. Also, cutting back on the number of unnecessary appliances you may have running on a continual basis is a good way to conserve up to 10% of your monthly energy use (see blog post 1-4-08). One example is the computer. A typical home computer uses approximately 90 Watts per second, and 180 Watts per second when the monitor is on. Another example of unnecessary energy consumption is your television. A television that is off but still plugged in uses 10 to 20 Watts per second just to keep the screen “warmed up”. This is so when you want to watch TV you don’t have to wait an extra 2-5 minutes for the screen to warm up.

STEP FOUR: FIND A KNOWLEDGEABLE COMPANY TO SELL AND INSTALL THE SOLAR PANELS

If the company you find to sell you and install the solar panels for you does not first take into account steps 1-3 listed above, find another company. It is very important that the appropriate amount of solar panels is purchased and installed correctly. Otherwise, the amount of energy you plan on collecting could be significantly reduced. If you live in the Gulf South area, Energy and Comfort Solutions (985-590-4167) is a good place to start your search for solar panels.

Enjoy the sunshine!

Vampire Loads and Wall Warts…didn’t you turn those appliances off?

2008-01-04T10:42:00.002-06:00

You thought you were saving energy by turning off the TV, the radio, the curling iron, etc….but they are still draining your pocketbook and pumping up your utility bill, but how? It seems a little creepy, but I guess that’s why they’re called “vampire” loads and wall “warts.” Those little (and big) appliances and electronics that seem to be in the “off” position as you stumble off to bed at night or rush out of the door in the morning are only in a sort of “sleep” mode that can make up as much as 10% of your electric bill each month. In our fast food culture, everyone wants their appliances to turn on instantly, so manufacturers have created televisions and the like that never really turn off so that consumers don’t have to wait for them to warm up when turned on. Cell phone chargers, battery chargers, iPod chargers, and all the other “chargers” are called wall warts because even though the electronic device is not plugged in, these chargers still pull a charge from the socket they are plugged into. Did you know that if 65 people unplugged their mobile phone chargers while not in use, it would take only 1 year to save 1,000 kWh of energy.

Ok, so you’ve suddenly realized that eliminating these hidden loads could afford you a 10% savings on your monthly energy bill, which translates into an extra 3 or 4 cups of Starbucks coffee you can fit into your budget. This is great motivation to make use of the following solutions….

1. Replace those appliances and electronics that draw electricity 24 hours per day with more efficient electronics and appliances. Energy Star appliances often use much less standby power. This option can be very expensive, so unless you are ready to fork out a lot of money, let’s move to option 2.

2. Buy something like a Smart Strip which is a type of power strip that turns off when the power usage of the first device on the strip is ramped down as it goes into sleep mode. It switches back on when that device’s energy usage ramps back up. This prevents the constant draw of power from all the devices without unplugging each one every time you are finished with it.

3. Buy a similar power strip which has an occupancy sensor and so turns on when someone enters the room, allowing the devices plugged in to use standby power only when someone is occupying that room.

4. The most inexpensive way to kill those vampires is to unplug each device after turning them off. Hmmm…..I don’t know about you, but my home and office is chocked full of chargers, electronic devices, computers, printers, and small appliances, so if I chose this option, I’d have to hire a full time vampire slayer to unplug every device when it’s not in use.

Keep your eyes open for new technologies that offer less and less use of standby power and beware of all that energy being sucked from your home when everything is “sleeping.”

Rehab Trades Demonstration for Flood Resistant & Healthy Homes

2007-11-10T06:22:00.000-06:00

A workshop, exhibit, and demonstration for
contractors, trades people, spec. writers, restoration
carpenters, and other housing technicians

Thursday, November 15, 2007
1:00 to 4:00 p.m.

2234 Sere St., New Orleans
(From Interstate-610, go north on Elysian Fields Av. three blocks. Then turn right at Sere.)

$20 fee (pay on site)
Pre-registration is required by phone
(We need your contact information in case of any change in venue.)

To register or for questions:
Until Sat., Nov. 10, call 410-727-7837.
After Nov. 10, call 202-739-0881.

This program is funded by a grant to Dillard University, with support from the Alliance for Healthy Homes.

The 11 demonstration stations

Each demonstration will include before and after exhibits,
and a demonstration of the tools, products, and techniques used.

1. Clean up station
More effective and comfortable worker protection, clean up and safety strategies.

2. Low-cost window restoration
Restoring windows (at a price competitive with vinyl windows) that are lead safe, energy efficient, wind resistant, maintainable and “green,” that will last four times as long as vinyl.
Extremely fast, safe, and effective methods of striping lead paint from sashes, doors, etc. in a contained space. Demonstration of state-of-the-art tools and products.

4. Flood resistant wall exhibit
Restoring houses that were exposed to less than 3 ft. of water above the floorboards to minimize future flood damage and eliminate damage to electrical systems.

5. Low-cost integrated pest management
Creating a mold, termite, and roach resistant house in one operation at a fraction of the cost of separate treatments.

6. Low cost site security and “storm shutter”
A cheap, simple systems for securing a job-site till the day it’s occupied, that allows for light and ventilation during work. The system can be kept by occupants as storm shutters.

7. Plaster repair system for damaged plaster
Will last 25 years or more.

8. Exterior damaged wood - restore and paint
Demonstration of cost-effective, lead safe, long lasting, preparation for restoring and painting siding, porches and exterior trim. This includes restoring wood with substantial rot. and at the same time increasing the houses flood resistance.

9. A 20-year paint job for exterior trim balustrades and decorative porch elements

10. Effective cleaning techniques, including cleaning for lead clearance

11. Creating a safe room for people living in a house being renovated

Presentation
The workshop will begin with a 1-hour presentation to cover

1. The house as a living system
Interrelated problems require holistic solutions - solving lead paint problems, increasing occupant safety, improving air quality, and minimizing asthma triggers --- all while lowering maintenance costs and preserving historic components.

2. Pre-work environmental and structural survey

3. Clear out, set up, work stations, worker protection, and security

4. Flood-damage resistant design

5. Planning, prioritizing, scope-of-work forms, job management, scheduling, and sequencing

Dennis Livingston Phone 410 727 7837
Community Resources E-mail dlresource@aol.com
1601 Guilford Ave., 4 South
Baltimore, MD 21202

Change a Light and Change the World Oct 3

2007-10-03T09:41:00.001-05:00

Below is an article published Oct 1st to encourage you to change a lightbulb in your home to save energy.

***News Release***

Louisiana Residents Can Change a Light and
Change the World Oct. 3
DNR and DEQ partner to ask residents to change to ENERGY STAR CFL light bulbs, save money and help the environment.

The Louisiana Dept. of Natural Resources and the Louisiana Dept. of Environmental Quality are partnering to change the world starting Oct. 3…one light bulb at a time.
In recognition of Change a Light Day and Energy Efficiency Month in October, Governor Kathleen Babineaux Blanco has proclaimed October ENERGY STAR Change a Light Month in Louisiana.
On Change a Light Day, Oct. 3, and throughout the month of October, Louisiana residents can save money and the environment by pledging to change at least one light bulb in their home from a traditional incandescent light bulb to an energy efficient compact fluorescent lamp or light bulb (CFL). By taking the ENERGY STAR Change a Light Pledge – citizens of Louisiana have the opportunity to save energy and to help voluntarily reduce greenhouse gas emissions by switching to ENERGY STAR qualified light bulbs and lighting products in their homes.
The simple step of changing one light bulb can make a difference. For example, if every household in Louisiana changed just one light to an ENERGY STAR light, it would be the equivalent of taking 3,000 cars off the road.
“Conservation begins at home. We encourage our citizens to change a light bulb or two in their homes this month. This simple effort has big dividends – saving dollars and a cleaner environment,” DNR Secretary Scott Angelle said.
One home can cause twice as many greenhouse gas emissions as the family car. Most U.S. homes still get their electricity from power plants that burn fossil fuels and release greenhouse gases into our atmosphere. An ENERGY STAR qualified bulb prevents more than 400 pounds of greenhouse gas emissions over its lifetime, the equivalent of keeping nearly 200 pounds of coal from being burned.
“Changing a light bulb and conserving energy in the home, can go a long way in improving air quality in Louisiana,” said DEQ secretary Mike McDaniel. “Everyone can help improve the environment by making small lifestyle changes.”
Used fluorescent bulbs must be disposed of in the proper way to prevent environmental pollution. CFLs contain approximately 4 milligrams of mercury so it is important that these bulbs are removed and recycled at designated facilities, such as the outlets designated by the Department of Environmental Quality. To ensure proper disposal the departments of Natural Resources and Environmental Quality have designated eight locations across Louisiana and locations throughout the state office buildings in Baton Rouge where residents can drop-off used bulbs.
Residents can visit one of eight regional DEQ offices to drop off their CFLs, including locations in:
• Lafayette at 111 New Center Drive
• Baton Rouge at DEQ Headquarters, 602 N 5th Street
• West Monroe at 1823 Hwy 546
• Pineville at 402 Rainbow Drive Bldg 402
• Shreveport at 1525 Fairfield Room 520
• New Orleans at 201 Evans Road, Bldg 4, Suite 420
• Mandeville at 645 N. Lotus, Suite C
• Lockport at 110 Barataria Street
• Lake Charles at 1301 Gadwell Street
Residents call also drop off CFLs in Baton Rouge at the:
• Department of Natural Resources, 617 N. 3rd Street
• Department of Social Services, 627 N. 4th Street
• Department of Education, 1201 N. 3rd Street
Changing a light bulb to help the environment does not stop at home. A number of large companies and retailers are pledging to encourage the use of ENERGY STAR CFLs within their stores and with their customers. Wal-Mart stores in Louisiana are showcasing ENERGY STAR CFLs and providing each employee with an education kit about ENERGY STAR products and their benefits to assist customers who want to “turn the switch” on energy efficiency.
Benefits of changing to CFLs include:
• Using 2/3 less energy with CFLs.
• Saving at least $25 each in energy costs over a CFL’s lifetime.
• Lasting 6 to 10 times longer than standard incandescent bulbs.
• Generating 70 percent less heat than incandescent lighting, reducing a home’s cooling needs and energy consumption.
• Stopping the production of approximately 65 pounds of carbon dioxide by switching from a 60-watt incandescent bulb.
Louisiana residents can visit www.energystar.gov to take the Change a Light Pledge. They can also visit www.dnr.la.gov to discover the benefits of energy efficiency in their homes and www.deq.la.gov to learn more about helping the environment through recycling.
• Read more from the DNR Energy web pages:
http://dnr.louisiana.gov/changealight
• View the Governor's proclamation:
Energy Star Change a Light Month Proclamation

Solar Air Conditioning? Is that possible?

2007-07-17T14:58:00.001-05:00

Air Conditioners are designed to keep us cool and comfortable, yet the operating costs often make us hot and frustrated. The SolCool Millennia 4.0 offers a fantastic solution to this problem.

The SolCool is a 2 ton system which accepts power sources such as: renewable direct DC power, generator power, or US Grid power can run completely on solar energy collected from solar panels. The “Millennia 4.0” has a 6-18 hour battery capability, which allows it to run continuously and independently from the grid. This air conditioner runs on an amazingly small 400 watts. Since your HVAC costs make up about 45% to 50% of your monthly utility bill, you could save dramatically by installing a SolCool system in your home.

These units can also be combined to zone for 2-10 ton applications. Each unit is not only an air conditioner, but is also a heat pump that can effectively heat your home in the winter months (powered by the sun). It has a variable speed blower and can remove humidity as well during the summer.

This amazing new technology is slated to come off the production line next month (August 2007), so check it out for yourself at www.EnergyandComfortSolutions.com

Can solar water heaters work for you?

2007-06-14T13:01:00.001-05:00

There are often new energy efficient products that emerge on the market with technology that will save plenty of energy, but the price tag is often astronomical. However, as utility costs continue to rise, alternative energy technologies are beginning to be introduced with more reasonably priced options. One option in particular is the ProgressivTube solar water heaters which are now affordable enough to install and operate with a payoff of approximately 5 to 6 years. Water heating accounts for about 15% - 20% of a household’s monthly utility costs. Those costs can be virtually eliminated by using this new solar water heating technology. In addition to the utility savings, a tax credit is available to help in the costs for purchasing solar water heaters (30% of the cost of the system, capped at $2000.00).

This solar water heater actually holds the water in its tubes while the radiant heat from the sun heats the water. It can be installed in conjunction with an existing tank water heater to provide hot water year round. A conservative estimate would put this solar water heater at providing about 80% of your water heating for the year. Now that is savings!
Check out the energy efficiency products at www.EnergyandComfortSolutions.com for more details on ProgrssivTube.

DuctSox….the green details

2007-05-15T10:56:00.001-05:00

DuctSox, a new version of ductwork that can be installed in open ceilings, are not just unique. They are also a green building product, meaning they give us an environmentally friendly alternative to the typical metal HVAC duct systems. Here are some reasons why…

• They improve indoor air quality by promoting healthy indoor spaces and by providing more effective air distribution.

• They reduce solid waste because there is less packaging to ship them and they are a completely finished product when they come out of the box, so there is no waste on the jobsite. There is also a reduction in material use.

• DuctSox conserve natural resources by reducing material use. They use less energy to ship and to install (less power tools and time).

• They decrease greenhouse gas emissions because they block introduction and spread of pollutants.

• DuctSox reduce building costs because they are lighter, so lighter roof loads require less reinforcement, which turns into lower building costs.

• Installation costs are also less and so are maintenance costs. DuctSox can be laundered instead of having to have duct cleaning performed.

• There is no painting required, so less costs are associated with the aesthetics of the ductwork.

• DuctSox reduce noise and create better air distribution for increased comfort, promoting a healthy indoor space.

You can see some terrific pictures of the DuctSox in many commercial applications at www.ductsox.com.

DuctSox…Another innovative, green building product

2007-05-14T16:00:00.002-05:00

Most of you are familiar with metal ductwork or flexible foil ductwork that we’ve seen in our own attics or in someone else’s attic. However, while most of our residential ductwork is located in our attics, there are quite a few commercial buildings that have open ceiling architecture where the roofline is also the ceiling. In these cases, the rafters are in plain view, as are the insulation and the rigid metal ductwork. Usually, the ductwork is painted the same color as the ceiling to camouflage it. This type of ductwork can consume many labor hours for painting and installation. Also, during installation, the sheet metal used to create the ductwork results in lots of scrap metal.

Enter DuctSox….DuctSox are cloth ducts that have tiny holes along the sides to disperse the air throughout the building evenly. They are suspended by small hooks from the ceiling and when the air turns on, the ducts inflate, spreading the conditioned air throughout the building.

“DuctSox fabric air dispersion products are the innovative alternative to metal ductwork in open ceiling architecture applications. DuctSox products have been manufactured in Dubuque, IA since the early 1980's.

No two applications are created the same, which is why every DuctSox system is 100% custom. [The] Engineering and Inside Sales team provide top quality design and technical support to meet the specifications of each application.” (www.ductsox.com)

DuctSox are custom designed and made to each building, reducing waste and increasing the ability of the HVAC machines to condition the air properly. They can also be created in whatever color the buyer desires, along with company logos or pictures emblazoned on the side. Besides being a very interesting and unique product, Ductsox reduce waste, improve indoor air quality, and offer many other benefits that I will discuss in tomorrow’s blog. Tune in tomorrow for the details.

Improving Indoor Air Quality (Pt. 1)

2007-04-30T11:32:00.001-05:00

After you have sealed your home’s thermal envelope and have a consistent air and thermal barrier and your ductwork is as tight as possible (see previous blog posts), there are a few other methods of improving indoor air quality. This is especially good news for those of us with asthma and allergies.

You can install a pre-filter as well as a MERV 10 filter. “MERV” stands for Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value and it is a rating used to tell the effectiveness of HVAC filters. The pre-filter is the most commonly known filter that is installed directly inside the return air grill. This filter is designed to collect the large particulates such as hair, pet fur, and larger particles of dust. This filter should be changed or cleaned every 30 days to maintain indoor air quality. The second filter is a 4” – 5” media filter with a rating of a MERV 8 or higher. This filter is installed directly on the return air plenum. The cartridge should be replaced once every 6 months. The MERV 8 and MERV 10 filters are designed to catch the smaller particulates as small as dust mites and spores. It also helps to keep the coil cleaner and thus maintains the unit’s energy efficiency for a longer period of time.

High-efficiency filters capture particles .3 - 100 microns. Standard 1-inch fiberglass filter captures particles 10 – 100 microns.

A newly developed pre filter has also been introduced to the market that has a MERV 8 rating. It can fit directly into the normal return air grill and can cut down significantly on allergens as long as the return air chase is sealed properly.

If you or someone in your family suffers from allergies, installing a high MERV filter can offer some relief as well as increase the life of your HVAC equipment. For more information go to www.lagrangeconsulting.com and send me an email.

Are metal roofs more or less energy efficient than standard roofs?

2007-04-23T09:48:00.001-05:00

I recently had someone ask me if it would improve the energy efficiency of his home to install a metal roof. My answer was “yes.” Metal roofs offer several advantages over standard shingled roofs. Besides being impact resistant and longer lasting, metal roofs reflect the sun’s radiant heat, cooling the attic much like a radiant barrier. Remember from the last blog article that radiant barriers reduce the amount of heat that the HVAC system has to compete with, but it also creates some special circumstances wherewith you must seal your ductwork extremely well.

Today, if you want a metal roof, but you do not want that metallic look, you have options. BASF has created special paints that can reflect the radiant heat just like a metallic coating. These paints are applied to the metal roofing panels to make your roof look more traditional, if that’s what you’re looking for. This website shows samples if the colors that are now offered for metal roofing
http://www.englertinc.com/roofing-colorss.aspx?Page=2 .

The LaHouse, which I’ve referenced in the last few blogs, has a major portion of the roof done in a very attractive brown metal. You can see pictures of the house on this site:
http://www.louisianahouse.org/en/family_home/home/la_house/photo_gallery/Photo+Gallery++Louisiana+House++Home++Landscape+Resource+Center_seriespage-33.htm
Check it out for yourself. You may just want a new roof.

Radiant Barriers

2007-04-16T09:14:00.003-05:00

I often get the question, “Do radiant barriers really work?” I cannot accurately answer this question with simply a “yes” or “no.” First of all, radiant barriers can be used in two places: in the walls and at the roofline of a home. Let’s address the walls first. In order for a radiant barrier to block radiant heat, it needs to have an air space in front of it. This being said, unless the radiant barrier is installed behind a brick wall which has an air space between the brick and the actual wall itself, the radiant barrier is just an expensive house wrap. However, when it is installed behind the brick, it is very effective in reducing the radiant heat that the wall is exposed to.

The roofline application gets a bit more complicated. Radiant barriers can effectively reduce the temperature in a typical attic by 18 to 23 degrees if they are installed properly at the underside of the roof deck. However, radiant barriers do not reduce the humidity in the attic because the attic is still vented, allowing outside air in, with all its moisture. When you reduce the temperature in an attic, you effectively adjust the dew point, so if there is any duct leakage from your HVAC system in the cooling season, condensation will form. This can mean it may “rain” in your attic if duct leakage is bad enough. Moisture can damage insulation and ductwork while creating mold growth.

Make sure if you install a radiant barrier at your roofline, that you use good, R-8 insulation around your ductwork and seal every joint with mastic. I also recommend having an expert come in to perform a duct leakage test also to find hidden leaks. The technology of a radiant barrier works. Make sure you take advantage of the benefits and avoid the negatives of this product.

Contact LaGrange Consulting at www.lagrangeconsulting.com if you would like to have a duct leakage test performed at your home.

The graphic at the beginning of the areticle shows the proper installation of a radiant barrier.

LaHouse - Alternative Construction Techniques Pt. 2

2007-04-13T08:41:00.001-05:00

SIPs are another alternative construction technique that not only makes a home strong, it also makes it more energy efficient. SIP stands for Structural Insulated Panels. They are basically made up of a thick piece of Styrofoam sandwiched between two termite treated OSB boards. Optional outside skins are available, such as metal, plastic, or cement skins. The SIPs are connected together to form the walls and roof of a house, much like building blocks. It is quicker and simpler than traditional stick built construction. Air does not infiltrate SIPs because there are no holes, as long as all of the seams are taped and caulked. Air cannot flow through the insulation, so the r-value is not decreased. The attic can be unvented as long as all the seams are caulked and sealed because the insulation is at the roofline instead of the ceiling joists. This may allow you to downsize your HVAC system because it will not be fighting the heat of a traditional attic. Wherever you want your windows and doors, holes are cut to accommodate these features. This is a very interesting building technique. To see photos and explanations on the construction of a house using SIPs, paste this web address into your browser. It is part of the construction of the LaHouse. If it interests you, make a point to go see the house for yourself on LSU’s main campus in Baton Rouge.

http://www.louisianahouse.org/en/family_home/home/la_house/photo_gallery/Photo+Gallery++Louisiana+House++Home++Landscape+Resource+Center_seriespage-13.htm

LaHouse - Alternative Construction Techniques Pt. 1

2007-04-12T10:51:00.001-05:00

Imagine not having to worry about hurricane winds damaging the walls of your home. Think about air not being able to infiltrate the walls. Consider having a true r-value of 30 in the walls of your home. Oh, yes, and did I mention that the walls are waterproof? I’m referring to ICF walls. ICF stands for Insulated concrete forms. The walls are constructed by stacking Styrofoam blocks like Legos. The blocks are hollow in the middle and concrete is poured into the forms, creating very strong concrete walls with high insulative values. Many contractors even use steel re-bar to reinforce the strength of the walls. No air can infiltrate concrete and all the wiring and plumbing is preplanned, so that it can be placed within the walls. Usually, second floors and roofs are constructed of standard stick built techniques. This is a great move toward making your home energy efficient and strong. However, the costs are higher than standard construction and many people make the mistake of spending all of their budget on the wall construction while scrimping on HVAC equipment and ceiling insulation. Make sure that if you decide to build an ICF house that you do not neglect the importance of choosing a good HVAC system and insulating properly. To see photos and explanations on the construction of an ICF, paste this web address into your browser. It is part of the construction of the LaHouse. If it interests you, make a point to go see the house for yourself on LSU’s main campus in Baton Rouge.

http://www.louisianahouse.org/en/family_home/home/la_house/photo_gallery/Photo+Gallery++Louisiana+House++Home++Landscape+Resource+Center_seriespage-12.htm

Seeing is Believing….the LaHouse

2007-04-10T08:39:00.001-05:00

Reading about energy efficiency, green building products, and best construction practices is always a good thing. However, when you are making decisions about how and when to use these products in your own home or in your customers’ homes, nothing beats being able to see these products and construction techniques in action. It is to our advantage in southeast Louisiana that we have access to the LaHouse.

The LaHouse is an incredible resource on LSU’s main Baton Rouge campus. It is a house that is being built to demonstrate all of the amazing new technologies available to us as we build and rebuild our homes. It is open to anyone who wants to see its cutaways, exhibits, and signs labeling materials and techniques. According to the LSU AgCenter’s website, the LaHouse will integrate and balance five Criteria for sustainable house and landscape.

Resource-efficient
• energy-efficiency
• water conservation
• waste management
• pollution prevention and storm water management
• use of environmentally responsible materials

Durable
• multi-hazard resistance (wind, flood, fire, etc.)
• pest resistance (structural and landscape)
• decay resistance

Healthy
• indoor air quality
• integrated pest management
• universal design (safe & accessible throughout life cycle)

Practical
• marketable
• cost-effective
• available
• short learning curve or rapid installation

Convenient
• functional and family friendly
• low-maintenance
• advanced wiring for the information age

I encourage you to take a day out of your schedule and make a trip to Baton Rouge to see for yourself the technologies that best fit in our hot humid climate. You will see many of the things that are discussed in this blog. It will be well worth your time to see for yourself what a comfortable, energy efficient, modern home should look like. Check out their website for detais, driving directions, and tours. www.lousianahouse.org

What should I look for when making a decision on what type of water heater to purchase and install?

2007-04-06T09:26:00.001-05:00

Storage tank water heaters are being made more and more efficient every year. There are two things to consider when making a decision between a storage unit and a tankless unit. Do you have a problem with not having enough space to fit a storage tank water heater? Also, does your family use large amounts of hot water all at once, such as two adults and three kids all taking showers in the morning from 6:00 AM to 7:00 AM each day? If you answered “yes” to either of these questions, then you may want to consider paying the extra money to install a tankless water heater. However, If you answered “no” to both questions, then, chances are, that you would not benefit from a tankless water heater any more than you would from a storage tank heater and the storage tank costs significantly less to purchase. When choosing between using a gas water heater or an electric one, consider that the electric tank is more energy efficient than a gas water heater. Also, if your water usage in your home is fairly predictable, the electric water heater can be attached to a timer to save even more money. The bottom line is that electric storage tanks are the most cost effective for the average homeowner.

How do I know if I am hiring a good contractor or subcontractor?

2007-04-05T08:18:00.001-05:00

When hiring a (sub)contractor, make sure to ask for references. Check out other jobs that the contractor has completed and speak with past customers to see if they were satisfied with the contractor’s work, if he showed up when he said he would, and if he made promises to the customers that he failed to fulfill. Ask the contractor for his contractor’s license number and for proof of liability coverage. The insurance company should send the proof of insurance directly to you so that you know that the contractor’s policy is in force. Get everything in writing so that you have a contractual agreement with which to base your decisions and payments on. If you need someone to provide you with a scope of work to give to your contractor(s), contact us at www.lagrangeconsulting.com.

How does a Geothermal Heat Pump work?

2007-04-03T08:36:00.001-05:00

Since the rising cost of utilities, people have been asking me if geothermal heat pumps can be used in our southeast Louisiana climate. In fact, these machines are the most energy efficient machines you can buy to heat and cool your home. With high performance and comfort comes a high price and if you decide to use a GSHP in your home, make sure that your HVAC contractor is familiar with the installation and maintenance techniques. When designed & installed correctly, you will save big on your utility bills for many years to come. It can also give you free hot water. Take a look at the article below. The Department of Energy gives a very good description of how a ground source heat pump works.

Geothermal Heat Pumps
Geothermal heat pumps (sometimes referred to as GeoExchange, earth-coupled, ground-source, or water-source heat pumps) have been in use since the late 1940s. Geothermal heat pumps (GHPs) use the constant temperature of the earth as the exchange medium instead of the outside air temperature. This allows the system to reach fairly high efficiencies (300%-600%) on the coldest of winter nights, compared to 175%-250% for air-source heat pumps on cool days.

While many parts of the country experience seasonal temperature extremes—from scorching heat in the summer to sub-zero cold in the winter—a few feet below the earth's surface the ground remains at a relatively constant temperature. Depending on latitude, ground temperatures range from 45°F (7°C) to 75°F (21°C). Like a cave, this ground temperature is warmer than the air above it during the winter and cooler than the air in the summer. The GHP takes advantage of this by exchanging heat with the earth through a ground heat exchanger.

As with any heat pump, geothermal and water-source heat pumps are able to heat, cool, and, if so equipped, supply the house with hot water. Some models of geothermal systems are available with two-speed compressors and variable fans for more comfort and energy savings. Relative to air-source heat pumps, they are quieter, last longer, need little maintenance, and do not depend on the temperature of the outside air.

Even though the installation price of a geothermal system can be several times that of an air-source system of the same heating and cooling capacity, the additional costs are returned to you in energy savings in 5–10 years. System life is estimated at 25 years for the inside components and 50+ years for the ground loop. There are approximately 40,000 geothermal heat pumps installed in the United States each year.
www.eere.energy.gov/consumer/your_home/space_heating_cooling/index.cfm/mytopic=12640

Should I Heat My Home With A Gas Furnace or a Heat Pump?

2007-04-02T15:53:00.001-05:00

Many people ask me, “Isn’t it more cost effective to use a gas furnace rather than a heat pump? Isn’t gas cheaper?” To that, my answer is “No.” and “No.” Gas is not cheaper than electricity and even if it was, heat pumps are still so much more efficient than gas furnaces that you would save money by using a heat pump even if electricity WAS more expensive than gas.

Allow me to explain myself. A gas furnace actually burns a fossil fuel, natural gas, to create the heat that heats your home. A heat pump, on the other hand, uses electricity to move heat from the air outside of your home to the inside of your home. It takes much less energy to move heat from one area to the other than it does to burn a fuel to create heat.

The chart that you see here gives you a very conservative idea of the cost savings associated with using a heat pump over a gas furnace. If you’d like to see a more personal picture of the savings, visit this “Dare to Compare” website where you can put in your own information. The heating Load Hours in New Orleans are 1000 according to the Louisiana Department of Natural Resources. The rest of the information will be unique to what utility company you use. Here is the link. Check it out for yourself! http://www.energyright.com/cgi-bin/dtc?tvaparms

New Orleans HBA Homeshow - Seminar Opportunity

2007-03-29T10:35:00.000-05:00

Here's a great opportunity to see (for free) what is out there as far as (re)building materials and methods. March 29th (today), 30th, 31st, and April 1st there will be a homeshow at the New Orleans Superdome. I will be there, speaking on topics related to energy efficiency and proper building techniques. Here is the breakdown of topics and times. Hope to see you there!

Thursday:
6:00PM Do-It-Yourself - 45 min.
7:00PM Heating and Cooling - 45 min.

Friday:
4:30PM Opportunities During Major Reconstruction - 45 min.
7:00PM Do-It-Yourself - 45 min.

Saturday:
12:30PM Opportunities During Major Reconstruction - 45 min.
3:00PM Working with Contractors - 30 min.
4:00PM Do-It-Yourself - 45 min.
5:00PM Heating and Cooling - 45 min.

Sunday:
12:30PM Heating and Cooling - 45 min.
2:30PM Do-It-Yourself - 45 min.

How Does a Heat Pump Work?

2007-03-28T13:26:00.001-05:00

An air-source heat pump can provide very efficient heating and cooling for your home, especially in our hot humid climate. The U.S. Department of Energy offers a very good explanation of how a heat pump works and why it works so well in our region.

When properly installed, an air-source heat pump can deliver one-and-a-half to three times more heat energy to a home than the electrical energy it consumes. This is possible because a heat pump moves heat rather than converting it from a fuel, like in combustion heating systems.

How They Work
A heat pump's refrigeration system consists of a compressor and two coils made of copper tubing (one indoors and one outside), which are surrounded by aluminum fins to aid heat transfer. In the heating mode, liquid refrigerant extracts heat from the outside coils and air, and moves it inside as it evaporates into a gas. The indoor coils transfer heat from the refrigerant as it condenses back into a liquid. A reversing valve, near the compressor, can change the direction of the refrigerant flow for cooling as well as for defrosting the outdoor coils in winter.

When outdoor temperatures fall below 25- 30°F, a less-efficient panel of electric resistance coils, similar to those in your toaster, kicks in to provide indoor heating. The efficiency and performance of today's air-source heat pumps is one-and-a-half to two times greater than those available 30 years ago. This improvement in efficiency has resulted from technical advances and options such as these:

• Thermostatic expansion valves for more precise control of the refrigerant flow to the indoor coil

• Variable speed blowers, which are more efficient and can compensate for some of the adverse effects of restricted ducts, dirty filters, and dirty coils

• Improved coil design

• Improved electric motor and two-speed compressor designs

• Copper tubing, grooved inside to increase surface area.

http://www.eere.energy.gov/consumer/your_home/space_heating_cooling/index.cfm/mytopic=12620

My advice is to make the most of your dollars you spend on your HVAC and invest in the savings that a heat pump can offer you.

Advantages of 2-speed or Multi-speed Condensers

2007-03-27T09:01:00.001-05:00

Yesterday I highlighted the use of variable speed equipment for your indoor equipment. Today I’d like to share with you the advantages of investing in a 2 speed or a multi-speed condenser (the outdoor equipment).

When a manual j-load is used to calculate the correct size of your air conditioning system, it is sized to accommodate the peak cooling times, when the house is experiencing the most heat load. In our southeast Louisiana climate, this is usually found in the afternoons in August when the sun is beating down on us and the outdoor humidity is unbearably high. During these times, a properly sized single speed condenser will have some very long run cycles. However, what about the rest of the year when the temperatures are not so extreme, or in the evenings when the sun is no longer looming over our homes? During these times, our A/C units are oversized and will cycle on and off quickly to keep from overcooling the house. This shortens the life of the equipment because the most wear and tear on the machine comes from it’s turning on and off. Also, when it short cycles, the condenser does not have a long enough run time to remove an adequate amount of humidity….which we desperately need in Louisiana.

Solution? A 2-speed or multi-speed condenser. These multi-speed condensers have sensors that tell the machine when it needs to run at full capacity and when it needs to run at a lower capacity so as to remove temperature and humidity. Some of these condensers even have controls that show what the indoor relative humidity in the house is and allows the machine to turn on in low speed when the humidity gets too high. These condensers can remove up to 30 times as much moisture from your home as a single speed condenser. It is almost like having a dehumidifier installed in your home.

Dehumidification is not the only advantage to these 2-speed condensers. Because they run for longer time periods, they often reach their full efficiencies. Also, when they run in low speed, they use less electricity than a single speed condenser which always runs in high speed. One other great thing about these condensers is that because they dehumidify the house, the home feels more comfortable at higher temperatures, so the thermostat can be set a few degrees higher and still maintain comfort levels. This will also save you mucho dinero during our dog days of Louisiana summer!

Variable Speed Air Handlers vs. Single Speed Air Handlers

2007-03-26T11:49:00.001-05:00

Did you know that, if you have a central air conditioning system, that it is usually a split system. This means you have indoor equipment and outdoor equipment that make up the entire system. The indoor equipment is called the air handler. So when you are making a decision about your HVAC system and the question of a variable speed air handler versus a single speed air handler comes up, what is the best choice? Well, I’m glad you thought to ask.

Let me explain what “variable speed” means in reference to your air handler. Lennox Home Comfort Systems describes it this way, “‘Variable speed’ refers to the fan motor inside the air handler—the indoor part of an air conditioner that moves cooled or heated air throughout the ductwork of your home. An air handler is usually a furnace or a blower coil. Unlike conventional single-speed motors, a variable speed motor runs at a wide range of speeds to precisely control heated and cooled air throughout the home.”

There are several advantages to using a variable speed air handler.
1. Variable speed motors cost less to operate because they usually run in low speed, unlike single speed systems which run in “high” 100% of the time.

2. Because variable speed air handlers gradually work their way from low speed to high speed, there is no blast of air from the vents.The transition when the machine turns on is very mild and it can be difficult to even tell when the machine actually turned on.

3. The noise level is much lower for variable speed air handlers because they usually run in low speed.

4. Variable speed air handlers make it much easier to create different zones in your home so that you can heat or cool one room differently than another room.

5. Variable speed air handlers do a much better job of removing humidity from the home, making you more comfortable in your home. Some systems can remove as much as 24 gallons per day from a home!

More comfortable, more efficient, and less noisy….sounds like a winner to me. Variable speed air handlers always trump single speed ones. Just make sure that your indoor and outdoor equipment are correctly matched by your HVAC sub. This will help your machine to run at its highest potential efficiency.

What does SEER mean and what type of SEER should you be looking for?

2007-03-23T07:50:00.001-05:00

First of all, a SEER is a rating used to tell the efficiency of an air conditioner or the cooling side of a heat pump. SEER is simply an acronym for Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio. The higher the number, the more efficient the machine is. The SEER rating is often found on a yellow sticker (similar to the photo) attached to newly installed condensers.

The federal standards have changed recently (January 2006) and the minimum SEER that can be manufactured is a 13 SEER. 10 SEER machines can still be installed, but they can no longer be manufactured by the companies who produce HVAC equipment. There are now machines whose efficiencies can reach up to 23 SEER! Just because the label on a unit says “high efficiency” does not mean that this is true. 15 SEER or above is considered “high efficiency”. 13 and 14 SEER machines are fairly average, while anything below 13 SEER is heading toward “inefficient.” Make sure that you find out the SEER of the HVAC machine that your contractor will be installing for your home. Using a lower SEER can cost you a lot of money during those hot summer months.

So here is the breakdown for all of the technical, mathematical types (courtesy of wikipedia)…

The SEER rating is the Btu of cooling output during a simulated, typical cooling-season divided by the total electric energy input in watt-hours (W•h) during the same period.

SEER = BTU ÷ W•h

For example, a 5000 Btu/h air-conditioning unit, with a SEER of 10, operating for a total of 1000 hours during an annual cooling season (e.g., 8 hours per day for 125 days) would provide an annual total cooling output of:

5000 Btu/h × 1000 h = 5,000,000 Btu

With a SEER of 10, the annual electrical energy usage would be about:

5,000,000 Btu ÷ 10 = 500,000 W•h

This is equivalent to an average power usage during the cooling season of:

500,000 W•h ÷ 1000 h = 500 W

The average power usage may also be calculated more simply by:

Average power = (Btu/h) ÷ (SEER, Btu/W•h) = 5000 ÷ 10 = 500 W

Whether you are a technical type or a “big picture” type of person, making sure that your air conditioner or heat pump has at least a 13 SEER rating can save you quite a bit of money in our hot humid Louisiana climate. THIS PART IS VERY IMPORTANT: BOTH THE INDOOR & OUTDOOR EQUIPMENT MUST BE MATCHED IN ORDER TO RECEIVE THE RATED SEER.

Keep your eyes open for those yellow stickers!

How do you find the right CFL for your home?

2007-03-22T07:53:00.001-05:00

The Energy Star website offers a good explanation of how to choose the best CFL color for your situation. “Just like incandescent bulbs are labeled soft white, cool white, bright white, etc., you will find most compact fluorescent lights (CFLs’) labeled soft white, cool white, or daylight (similar to bright white). When selecting a new CFL, it is a good idea to use the same color type as the incandescent you are replacing. Another way to do this is to look for the scientific color designation known as correlated color temperature (CCT) on the packaging: 2,700K, 3,000K, 5,100K, etc. Lower CCT numbers mean the light will be warmer white (yellowish), while higher numbers mean it will be cooler light (bluish). Matching these numbers gets you consistent color. When changing out multiple bulbs in one room, select ENERGY STAR qualified CFLs with the same color and the same manufacturer to help ensure more consistent light color.”

This picture gives an example of what the light colors may look like. The Kelvins are listed below each circle.

In addition to the color, the CFL you buy needs to match the amount of light output you were getting from the previous incandescent bulb. Below is a chart that shows the amount of lumens that each wattage produces. Lumens are the amount of light produced by a light source. For example, a 60 watt light bulb putts out 250 lumens, so when choosing a CFL to replace this bulb, you should choose one that produces 250 lumens. The chart below shows some more examples of this. For more information, visit www.energystar.gov

Are compact fluorescent lights (CFL’s) really better?

2007-03-21T08:04:00.001-05:00

What are those funny looking light bulbs? Is that some new fad that will go the way of the yellow linoleum we used to install in our kitchen? Those “funny shaped” bulbs are actually called compact fluorescent bulbs, and unlike the yellow linoleum, they probably will not fade away into the annals of what NOT to put in your home. Here are a few reasons why CFLs are her to stay (and they should be staying in your house after you see the reasons why they are so great.).

According to the Department of Energy, Energy Star labeled CFL’s…

•Use at least 2/3 less energy than standard incandescent bulbs to provide the same amount of light, and last up to 10 times longer.

•Save $30 or more in energy costs over each bulb’s lifetime

•Generate 70 percent less heat, so they’re safer to operate and can cut energy costs associated with home cooling.

•In addition to other quality requirements, must turn on instantly, produce no sound, and fall within a warm color range or be otherwise labeled as providing cooler color tones.

•Are available in different sizes and shapes to fit in almost any fixture, for indoors and outdoors. (Contrary to popular belief, they don’t all come in that funny curly-cue shape.)

These are all great reasons to begin replacing the incandescent lights in your home with CFL’s as the old lamps burn out. They may cost more, but the savings created by using CFL’s is often greater. You will get the most savings from using CFL bulbs in rooms where the lights are on for greater periods of time, such as the living room, kitchen, or game rooms. Tomorrow, I will talk about the warm and cool color ranges of CFL’s. If you have questions or comments, please post them in the comments section of the blog or go to www.lagrangeconsulting.com to email me.

What qualifies a window to be labeled “Energy Star”?

2007-03-19T09:06:00.002-05:00

When you are looking to purchase windows for your home, one good thing to look for is the Energy Star label. While custom windows often times will not have this label, they should be available on the standard sized and standard shaped windows. So what makes a window qualified to wear that sticker? Here is how the Department of Energy describes the qualifications for a window to be labeled “Energy Star”.

“ENERGY STAR labeled windows meet a stringent energy efficiency specification set by the Department of Energy and have been tested and certified by the National Fenestration Rating Council (NFRC). NFRC is an independent, third-party certification agency that assigns specific energy efficiency measures such as U-factor and Solar Heat Gain Coefficient to the complete window system, not simply the glass. ENERGY STAR qualified windows may have two or more panes of glass, warm-edge spacers between the window panes, improved framing materials, and Low-E coating(s) which are microscopically thin coatings that helps keep heat inside during the winter and outside during the summer.”

When you see this blue label attached to your windows, you can be assured that those windows have been tested and are approved by a non-biased third party as energy efficient. Besides saving money on your energy costs and on the size of your HVAC system, you can also qualify for a tax credit if you purchase Energy Star windows. Besides having the blue Energy Star label, the windows must meet one or more of the following criteria listed in the chart below. Northern and Central Louisiana are located in the South/Central climate zone. The very southern portion of the “boot” are part of the Southern climate zone. The U-value and the SHGC should be included on the sticker found on each of your windows. If possible, save these labels as proof for your taxes. You can get up to $200 in tax credits for your windows. This must be 10% of the cost of your windows and cannot include installation costs. See your tax professional for more details.

What is Low E?

2007-03-17T10:21:00.001-05:00

Low E stands for "low emissivity". Low E glass is coated with a microscopic, virtually invisible, metallic oxide layer that improves thermal performance. The primary function is to reduce the ultraviolet rays from the sun. A secondary feature is that it blocks short wave radiation and so it hinders heat gain. Low E is not just effective at keeping heat out in the summer, but at keeping heat in in the winter time.

The windows are the weak points in our walls when it comes to the thermal envelope. The more glass you have on your home, the more heat (during the summer) that the A/C has to compete with. Therefore, when you raise the heat resistance in your windows by adding low E, you’re A/C has less heat load to overcome. This translates into savings for you because you may now be able to install a smaller HVAC system which costs less money to buy and less money to run. Just make sure that you have a manual j-load calculated on your home to determine exactly the correct tonnage for your home (see yesterday’s post). Also, if you decide to upgrade to Low E windows, make sure that whoever is performing your manual j-load is aware of this fact so they do not oversize your machine.

For more information about Low E, see this website: http://www.efficientwindows.org/

What should I look for when purchasing windows for my home?

2007-03-16T08:40:00.002-05:00

When purchasing windows for your new or existing home, you should pay attention to
the type of glass used in the window. While the frame is important and vinyl is the best choice for our hot humid climate, the glass is even more important with regards to efficiency and comfort. The glass should have a Low E coating and a solar heat gain coefficient (SHGC) of no higher than .40. The type of Low E is called Low E squared or splutter coat. These are the terms used for the types of Low E appropriate for our southern climate.

Many window salespeople may try to sell you additional features such as a triple pane or argon gas between the glass, but the up front increase in cost does not always justify the slight energy savings caused by these features. Just remember that Low E is the way to go when buying new windows.

Check in tomorrow to find out exactly what Low E is and how it can affect your HVAC system!

What is a Manual J-load and why do I need one?

2007-03-14T22:29:00.001-05:00

You call your air conditioning subcontractor and tell him you need an HVAC system for your new (or reconstructed) house. He comes out, divides the square footage of your house by 500 square feet and that’s how many tons of air conditioning he installs in your house. The End….right?

Wrong. I have encountered many homeowners recently who wonder why they may be in need of our services to perform a Manual j-load for their home. Here’s why…
Houses are being built tighter and more energy efficient than ever and old homes are being upgraded with better insulation, better windows, and better air sealing. All of these things change the dynamics of a home’s thermal envelope, allowing the amount of air needed in the home to fluctuate from home to home. Air Conditioning Contractors of America (ACCA) Manual J is used primarily to size the HVAC system. It is an accurate procedure which can be used to estimate the heat loss and heat gain for residential structures. Residential heating and cooling systems must be selected and designed to provide comfort conditions throughout the whole house, regardless of season. Temperature, humidity, air movement and ventilation must be controlled by the HVAC system. In addition, the system must perform these functions at maximum efficiency in order to maximize comfort and minimize energy consumption.
The Manual J-load calculation is the basis for the system design. Loads must be analyzed if the mechanical equipment, ducts, and air grills are to be sized correctly. Comfort, efficiency and reliability are closely related to correct sizing and selection of equipment. A load calculation must be made for each room so that the room’s cooling and heating requirements can be determined. This information is needed for grill selection, fan and duct sizing. A load calculation must be made for the entire structure in order to properly size the heating and cooling equipment.

Oversizing can lead to:
 Higher equipment cost
 Excessive loading/unloading
 Frequent cycling
 High indoor relative humidity (leading to mold and mildew)
 Large conditioned-space temperature swings
 Low efficiency and high operating costs
 Shorter equipment life
 Poor indoor air quality

Advantages of proper sizing as opposed to over sizing are:
 Lower initial equipment cost
 Ease of obtaining proper airflow
 Can lead to greater occupant comfort
 Can lead to longer equipment life
 Quieter equipment operation
 Leads to greater operating efficiency
 Lower operating costs
 Can lead to lower maintenance cost

When you consider how long and how often you will use your air conditioner over the years, it stands to reason that the best decision is to invest now in a manual j-load to correctly size your system. Some HVAC subcontractors may provide this service. However, many HVAC subs will oversize your system, causing you to pay more for your equipment. Please contact LaGrange Consulting at www.lagrangeconsulting.com and we can provide you with an accurate manual j-load for your home. When we size your HVAC system, it may be smaller than what you previously thought. Remember, buying a smaller machine saves you money up front when you buy the machine, and every time the machine runs, it costs less money because a smaller machine uses less energy. Save yourself money by doing this right the first time. Get a manual j-load for your home.

Those Charming Old Homes!

2007-03-14T14:32:00.001-05:00

Gone are the days of handcrafted plaster walls, delicately carved crown molding, hand carved wooden banisters and true brick fireplaces, complete with the brick chimney. Many of the homes in New Orleans have these charming features that make me wonder what it was like to live in a world where homes were not built quickly in mass quantities, but they were carefully pieced together by skilled craftsmen.

These homes are so beautiful and interesting with all of their history, but their lack of energy efficiency can sometimes be a heavy burden to their owners. I want to address one problem that I have encountered over and over in these old homes. Fireplaces. Many of these old fireplaces are not even used any longer, but the fireplace flue and area surrounding the flue are leaking air from the attic into the home. In winter, your fireplace acts like a giant straw. Since hot air rises, warm house air is sucked up through the chimney causing uncomfortable drafts, and cold air is pulled in through any cracks in the exterior walls. Many times there is no flue cover and the inside of the chimney is irregularly shaped because it is made of masonry. I have come across a product that can now solve this air leakage problem rather easily. It is called a Fireplace Draft Stopper. It is an inflatable “pillow” that fills the gap when the fireplace is not in use and red tag hangs down reminding the homeowner to remove the unit before lighting a fire. It’s so simple and it preserves that original handcrafted look of the old masonry fireplaces.

If you want more information on this product, visit www.energyandcomfortsolutions.com . Click “contact” to ask for more details or order information for the Fireplace Draftstopper.

Attic Stairs, the Ultimate Hole

2007-03-13T10:06:00.001-05:00

You are concerned about energy efficiency, so you seal the gaps in your window frames, install weather stripping at the doors and caulk like crazy, but your thermostat seems to be malfunctioning, or so you think. Even when the rest of the house is cool, your A/C kicks on and in the winter, when the house is nice and cozy, the heater still tends to kick on more than it needs to. While it is possible that the thermostat needs new batteries or needs to be recalibrated, there may be another reason that you having these problems. In most homes, the thermostat is located very close to the pull down attic stair which consists of a ¼” thick piece of plywood and some fold out stairs. The remainder of your ceiling has insulation covering it, but not this attic stair. It is free to leak attic air into your home whenever your HVAC unit turns on. The machine sucks air from the attic right past the thermostat and into the return air grill. The thermostat registers the temperature as being closer to what the attic temperature is and runs your unit more often to compensate.
So the attic stair is a problem if you don’t have an unvented attic. “How do I fix it?” I’m so glad you asked! You need to put weather stripping around the perimeter of the attic stair so that when it closes, it seals the space around it, helping to prevent air infiltration. Also, you need to install something such as the Battic Stair that can insulate and stop air leakage effectively. This box fits directly over the attic stair and seals to a piece of weather stripping. To enter the attic, simply lift the box aside and enter. Visit www.energyandcomfortsolutions.com to get order information about this easy to install product. Click “contact” to ask for this product and close up the ultimate source of air infiltration in your home.

Leaky Ducts….correcting the problem

2007-03-12T07:49:00.001-05:00

The list of problems caused by duct leakage can go on for quite a while, but fixing the problem is what we need to focus on. After identifying the problem areas, those areas need to be sealed, so that air cannot pass through. No, we do NOT use duct tape! I know, the name is misleading, but while it may make for an interesting prom outfit for your teen, duct tape cannot stand up against the heat in a typical attic and it doesn’t even seal that well.

Anywhere that ducts connect to the return air plenum or to other ducts is a possibility for air leakage. These connections should be painted generously with mastic, which can be found at your local home improvement store. This will prevent air leaks from causing some of the problems we discussed yesterday. Return air chases need to be sealed at all seams and corners with mastic. If any of the insulation around the ducts is wet, it needs to be replaced. When flexible duct gets wet, the whole wet section of the duct needs to be replaced. Fiberglass insulation is no longer effective once it has gotten wet.

So save your duct tape for those fancy nights out on the town, get a good bucket of mastic, and start sealing that duct system!

Comments anyone?

2007-03-11T16:12:00.000-05:00

Today I'm taking a bit of an intermission from the regular posts I've been doing. I'll continue on about repairing leaky duct systems tomorrow. But for today, I'd like to invite you, as the readers, to participate in the discussion. If you have any comments or suggestions, feel free to post your ideas, questions, and opinions regarding the information on this blog. Thank you!

Leaky Ducts….what’s it costing you?

2007-03-10T07:22:00.001-06:00

According to the national Department of Energy, “Typical duct systems lose 25 to 40 percent of the heating or cooling energy put out by the central furnace, heat pump, or air conditioner. Homes with ducts in a protected area such as a basement may lose somewhat less than this, while some other types of systems (such as attic ducts in hot, humid climates) often lose more.”

Considering that 40 to 50% of our utility costs come from heating and cooling our homes, the loss of energy coming from duct leakage is substantial. For example, suppose that your annual utility costs were a conservative $1800.00 per year. About $810.00 of that (45%) would account for heating and cooling your home. 40% of that $810.00 is $324.00 per year that is being wasted on duct leakage. So what could you do with an extra $324.00 per year? I have a good idea of what you should spend it on this year….improving your duct system, what else?

Duct leakage not only costs homeowners money on utilities. It also causes other problems such as mold, mildew, indoor air quality problems, water stains around air vents, and general discomfort in the home. As you may have read in yesterday’s blog post, leaking ductwork pressurizes the attic and depressurizes the house, causing air infiltration. Ducts that leak cold air into a hot humid attic reach dew point quickly and condensation can form. As the condensation collects, it gives way to mold and water stains on the sheetrock below. Leaky ducts can also suck up insulation and dust fibers from the attic and distribute them throughout the house. This is most noticeable to people who have allergies. Pay attention to the how often you dust your home. Most homes that are dusty have duct leakage.

If you are experiencing any of these problems, call a professional, such as LaGrange Consulting, to perform a duct leakage test. This will diagnose the problem and pinpoint the leakage areas. After you have the test done, it’s time to improve your ductwork. I’ll tell you how to do that in tomorrow’s blog entry.

What Causes Air Infiltration? – Pt. 3

2007-03-09T08:45:00.001-06:00

So you have a one story home on a slab foundation and there is rarely any wind that passes through your neighborhood, so what is causing that flow of air from your light switch and socket plate covers? It’s air infiltration alright, but why? You probably have very little stack effect happening and the wind has very little impact in your part of the world, so it must be the third cause of infiltration: that necessary evil, the central heating and cooling system.

Central heating and cooling systems that are either poorly designed or installed improperly can create three types of driving forces for air leakage (Return air leaks pressurize your home & supply leaks depressurize your home):

• Negative pressure - suction pressures that pull outside air into return duct leaks.
• Positive pressure - HVAC blower drives heated or cooled air out of the supply ductwork to the exterior.
• Pressure imbalances - Duct-related problems can create pressure imbalances in the home that increase air leaks through holes.

When your duct system is leaky and there is poor airflow among the rooms in your home, you create pressure imbalances. There may be a positive pressure in one room and a negative pressure in another. Negative pressures suck outside air in, while high positive pressures push conditioned air out of the holes in the home. Make sure all ductwork is sealed with mastic, the airflow is balanced, and air is able to return back to the return air grill.

While our heating and cooling systems are integral to the comfort of our homes, they can cause chaos in the indoor air quality and energy efficiency of our homes if installed improperly. Make sure you have a knowledgeable HVAC subcontractor who regularly services your system. If you suspect that your HVAC system is causing your indoor air quality problems, call LaGrange Consulting to get a correct and accurate diagnosis.

What Causes Air Infiltration? – Pt. 2

2007-03-08T08:55:00.001-06:00

Do you have a very tall roof, multi-story house, or a raised house? One of the main reasons that air may infiltrate your home is something called the stack effect. The temperature difference between inside and outside causes warm air inside the home to rise while cooler air falls, creating a driving force known as the stack effect.
The stack effect can move a great amount of air due to the power of rising warm air. The stack effect is fairly weak but is almost always present. Most homes have large holes leading into the attic and crawlspace, particularly older homes that have balloon framing. Because the stack effect is so prevalent and the holes through which it drives air are often so large, it is usually a major contributor to air leakage, moisture, and air quality problems.

Now that you know about the stack effect, you may want to make sure that all attic and crawlspace openings are properly sealed with caulk or mastic. Another solution is to seal the subfloor and the roofline of the home with open cell foam insulation. In essence, this closes the top and bottom of the home, preventing the stack effect.

Tomorrow tune in to part 3. I’ll discuss the final major cause of air infiltration in our homes today. If you want to know exactly how much air is entering your home and where, hire LaGrange Consulting to perform a blower door test.

What Causes Air Infiltration? – Pt. 1

2007-03-07T09:27:00.001-06:00

Ever been sitting on your sofa watching your favorite TV show and you feel a breeze flow over your feet? You notice it’s coming from under your baseboards, not you’re A/C vents. This is air infiltration (a.k.a. “air leakage”). It can cause a myriad of efficiency and comfort issues in a home. More air infiltration means more dust, increased possibility of mold growth, higher humidity, and more air that the heating and cooling system has to condition. These problems lead to higher utility costs and sometimes costs associated with remediation of mold and mildew. This can also cause problems for people with allergies to dust and mildew. For these reasons, homes should be built as tightly as possible and allowed to “breath” using only the HVAC system, not the uncontrolled holes in the thermal envelope.

Over the next few days, I’m going to explain the different causes for air infiltration. The better we understand the reasons behind it, the better we can fight air infiltration in our homes. Air leakage requires two main ingredients: holes and a driving force — a pressure difference that forces air to flow through a hole. One driving force that we have to contend with is wind. It is usually considered to be the primary driving force for air leakage. When the wind blows against a building, it creates a high-pressure zone on the windward areas. Outdoor air from the windward side infiltrates into the building while indoor air exits on the leeward side. Wind acts to create areas of differential pressure, which causes both infiltration and exfiltration. The degree to which wind contributes to air leakage depends on its velocity and duration. This phenomenon is especially noticeable in homes that are located near water, where a breeze seems to blow constantly. Sealing the thermal envelope can prevent wind from having such an effect in your home. Check out tomorrow’s blog for the 2nd reason why infiltration occurs.

Sealing Recess Can Lights

2007-03-06T08:32:00.001-06:00

Noticing a large amount of dust in your home? This may be caused by the ever-popular recess can lights. These lights often have large holes in the cans that leave a sizeable path for dust to pass from the attic into your home. Also, the space between the can and the sheetrock is usually another easy place for dust to pass through. There is only one way to cure this problem. Get rid of those holes. Now wait! Don’t just stick some tape over the openings in the can. This could cause a fire hazard. You could buy an air tight gasket to install as a trim kit to seal the space between the can and the sheetrock. However, this can sometimes be costly if you have a lot of these lights and it still does not solve the problem of the holes in the recess can itself. Another option that covers all the bases would be to build a box out of foam board, seal all the seams and corners with UL 181 rated tape, and put it over the light from the attic side. Caulk the box to the sheetrock to seal the light off completely from the attic. You should replace the bulb with a compact fluorescent lamp if you use this method to ensure that it does create a fire hazard within the box.
So what happens if you cannot get to the recess can light from the attic side? Not to worry. There is a retrofit recess can light kit that you can purchase from Energy and Comfort Solutions that screws easily into the socket of the existing recess can. It is UL rated and it comes complete with an airtight gasket at the trim and a CFL bulb which will reduce heat and electricity consumption. It will not overheat and there are no holes to allow air from your attic into your home.
Whichever way you choose to solve this problem, the benefits will far outweigh the cost (or aggravation) to resolve it.

Go to www.energyandcomfortsolutions.com and click on the "contact" button to get order information for the recess can light retrofit kit

Raised Foundations – Insulating the Subfloor – Pt. 2

2007-03-05T08:20:00.001-06:00

So the idea of crawling under your house and meeting up with all the creatures and dirt that abide there does not appeal to your ideal of a Saturday afternoon activity? Good news! There is an alternative method to insulating your subfloor with rigid foam board insulation. This method is so simple…hire a qualified professional company to install an average of 3” open cell spray foam insulation to the underside of your subfloor. Quoting from my Feb. 28th blog entry, “The best way to prevent moisture from entering your home through the sub-floor and to insulate effectively is to have half pound, open-cell foam insulation installed at the sub-floor. Because this foam is an air barrier, the moisture-laden air of southeast Louisiana cannot move through the insulation to bring heat and humidity into the home. Also, the foam insulation will not fall out or become home to small animals that might like to live in other types of insulation.” Remember, there are only a few spray foams that are scientifically tested and approved by the building code. Visit www.energyandcomfortsolutions.com to get in touch with a qualified professional company who can take care of your insulation needs.

Raised Foundations – Insulating the Subfloor – Pt. 1

2007-03-04T09:16:00.002-06:00

Don’t forget the info posted previously about installing a vapor barrier over the ground when you have a crawlspace below your home. However, that is just the first step in preventing moisture from traveling through the subfloor and into your home. The second step is to correctly insulate the subfloor. For this step, there are two viable options. One method is somewhat affordable, but extremely labor intensive while the other option is simple, but can be a bit costly. Neither includes fiberglass insulation. I’ll talk about the first option today.

Completely sealing off your subfloor with an air barrier is the best way to go. One way to do this is by using rigid foam insulation board. Here’s how…

Buy 1½-2 inch thick foam insulation board. Attach it to the bottom of the floor joists, covering the entire subfloor’s framing. Caulk or foam around every penetration. Tape all of the joints between every piece of insulation board so that no air can pass through. The tape should be a UL 181 rated tape. The foam board is both an air and moisture barrier, so, if this process is done correctly, it will block the moisture from entering the home through the subfloor. It will also insulate the subfloor from the outdoor temperatures and help prevent air infiltration into your home. This process is labor intensive, but worth the work. Doing it right the first time means not having to call in an expert like myself, to fix the problems later.

If that explanation made you exhausted just reading about it, take a deep breath and wait for tomorrow’s post about the second option you have in insulating your subfloor. Remember that when one component of your home, such as subfloor insulation, is improved, it will affect other parts of your home. Please speak with a consultant that understands a “whole house” approach before you make any improvements to your home.

Raised Foundations – Why Fiberglass Just Won’t Do

2007-03-03T09:35:00.001-06:00

So you’ve spread your 6 mil plastic on the ground below your raised house and you are ready to insulate the subfloor. You have a decision to make. What method are you going to use to insulate the underside of your floor?

“Don’t you just cram some of that ‘pink stuff’ in between the floor joists,” You ask?

Well, that is not such a great idea. In fact, it’s not even a good idea. There are several reasons why that “pink stuff” (or yellow or white) – fiberglass insulation is not suitable as a subfloor insulator, especially in a hot humid climate. Let me share a few of those reasons with you before you proceed with the “cramming” process.

1. In order for the fiberglass insulation to be somewhat effective, it needs to be installed directly in contact with the subfloor and the floor joists with no air space between the subfloor and insulation. This rarely occurs because the insulation is usually thinner than the floor joists and tends to sag onto whatever is holding the insulation to the subfloor (i.e. netting, chicken wire, vinyl siding, etc.)

2. The sagging of the fiberglass causes another problem, which is that the air spaces caused by sagging now give way to the passage of air though out the floor joist cavities. When air flows through fiberglass insulation, it significantly reduces the r-value (resistance to heat flow), rendering the insulation fairly useless.

3. If “tiger teeth” are used to hold the insulation in place, each piece of insulation is compressed in the center. Also, improper installation can cause compression in uneven spaces, and around pipes, piers, and wires. Compression drastically reduces the r-value of insulation.

4. Small animals also want a nice warm place to stay in the winter. The space between your fiberglass insulation and your subfloor makes a cozy living room for any creature small enough to crawl in between your floor joists. Hope you like small houseguests!

5. Wind and animals can cause irreparable damage to fiberglass insulation in a subfloor. In many cases, after several years have passed, much of it has fallen out or been blown out in a storm.

6. Finally, and most importantly, fiberglass insulation is NOT an air barrier, so even if it does happen to insulate the subfloor from heat and cold, it is still incapable of blocking the outside humid air from traveling through the insulation and into the home through the subfloor. Over time the moist air travels thru the insulation and air from the crawlspace meets the cool air from your home. Presto! We have moisture. Once this occurs the insulation becomes wet and its performance is greatly affected. This is where homeowners see problems with mold, buckling wood floors, (possibly termites) and high humidity in their homes, not to mention, higher utility bills caused by air infiltration.

Using fiberglass insulation in a crawlspace is not only energy in-efficient, it greatly affects the comfort of your home. It could also be a very costly mistake to correct.

I know that many homeowners tend to make decisions upon what they have seen others do in the past. For years, fiberglass has been a staple for insulating subfloors, but do yourself a favor and read tomorrow’s blog post where I will give you two alternatives which will drastically increase your chances of avoiding the problems listed above. Making the right decisions now will ensure you don’t have to redo the work later.

Raised Foundations – Preventing Moisture Problems

2007-03-02T11:24:00.001-06:00

Buckling floors, mildew, high humidity in your home….these are just some of the problems associated with raised foundations that are not properly constructed and insulated. Many homes in our hot humid climate have a raised foundation whether it is because of aesthetics or because the area is prone to flooding. When a home is raised, there are several extra steps that need to be taken that do not necessarily apply to homes built on a slab. Even if there is no standing water under the home, there is a significant amount of moisture that rises up out of the soil and can enter the home through the subfloor, creating the problems stated above. I want to discuss the steps homeowners should take to prevent these problems from occurring or reoccurring in their homes.

The first step in stopping this transfer of moisture is to create a moisture barrier at the ground level. This should be done by covering the entire ground in the crawl space with a 6 mil polyethylene covering. Do not turn back the edges near the foundation wall, though. Lap polyethylene up the foundation walls and piers approximately 4 inches and tape the edges. Overlap the joints 12” and tape the seams.

If this is an open crawl space, use loose gravel around the edges to weight down the plastic sheathing to make certain that wind does not move it.

So get out your rolls of plastic! Tomorrow we’ll talk about the next step.

You Don’t Need an Expert to Do This…

2007-03-01T07:39:00.001-06:00

When discussing energy efficiency and indoor air quality, many people bring up insulation, heating and cooling systems, windows, and several other complex ingredients used to create an energy efficient home. However, many homebuilders and homeowners neglect a very important, yet simple step in making a home energy efficient and comfortable. That simple step is AIR SEALING. According to the Department of Energy, “A home that is not sealed for air infiltration will be uncomfortable due to drafts and will use about 30% more energy than a relatively airtight home.” Air infiltration is responsible for bringing extra heat, dust, and humidity into the unsealed home. The good news is that air sealing can be done by the homeowner during (re)construction using lots of caulk and canned foam. There’s no need to hire an expert or to spend a pile of money. You just need to be familiar with those key areas that are famous for allowing air into our homes. Here are some steps to follow:

These steps should precede both the installation of the insulation in the walls and attic insulation.

1. Seal the soleplate to floor.

2. Seal all exterior wall penetrations. Anything that penetrates the walls such as wiring, pipes, etc. needs to have caulk around it.

3. Seal all top-plate penetrations. Anything that passes from the attic into the house such as wiring, pipes, lighting fixtures, speakers, chimneys, etc. creates a hole that needs to be sealed. For any penetration that is located at the top plate or may get hot, use a fire rated caulk.

4. Weather-strip all operable openings to the exterior; including doors and attic access holes.

5. Seal around all doors and windows using non-expandable foam or caulk. Be sure to check with the manufacturer’s specifications so as not to void the warranty of the window or door.

Paste this site into your browser for more details: http://www.eere.energy.gov/buildings/building_america/pdfs/db/35626.pdf

Happy Sealing!

What is the best way to insulate underneath the subfloor of my home?

2007-02-28T10:19:00.001-06:00

In most circumstances, the best way to prevent moisture from entering your home through the sub-floor and to insulate effectively is to have half pound, open-cell foam insulation installed at the sub-floor. Because this foam is an air barrier, the moisture-laden air of southeast Louisiana cannot move through the insulation to bring heat and humidity into the home. Also, the foam insulation will not fall out or become home to small animals that might like to live in other types of insulation.

What is the best type of insulation to use in my walls and attic?

2007-02-27T18:39:00.001-06:00

The best insulation to use in a hot humid climate like the one in southeast Louisiana is open cell spray-in foam insulation. This foam seals all air leaks and insulates very well in the walls and at the roofline. Unlike other insulations, it is an air barrier, so air infiltration is greatly reduced when using spray foam insulation. Creating an un-vented attic, using foam insulation at the roof rafters instead of the ceiling joists, will offer the most energy benefits. This turns the attic into conditioned space, part of the building’s thermal envelope. When this happens, the HVAC system no longer has to compete with the extreme temperatures found in vented attics, because most un-vented attics remain within 10 degrees of the home’s living space temperature. This allows you to downsize your HVAC equipment, saving money on the front end (by buying smaller equipment) and saving money every time the machine runs (because it is a smaller unit, using less energy). While spray foam insulation costs more than other insulations, its performance far surpasses that of any other insulation.

What is a vapor barrier and why do I need one in my walls?

2007-02-26T17:38:00.001-06:00

A vapor barrier is also called a vapor retarder; this is a material that retards the movement of water vapor through a building element (such as walls, floors, and ceilings). It is important to have a vapor barrier such as building wrap or tar paper on the exterior walls of your home to prevent moisture from getting into your walls and causing mold and rot to occur. The building wrap should be located on the outside of the stud between the sheathing and the stud wall.